Bombs Over Biblis: The History of Biblis' WW II Airfield

Historic Aerial View of the Biblis Airfield.

As an American living in Germany, I am always amazed at the amount of history which surrounds us here. During the many hikes that I take in the region, I often encounter the remnants of times gone by, whether it be a castle, an old church, or perhaps a grave mound. Sometimes, however, the history is more recent and thus seems more vivid and alive, such on my last hike near the town of Biblis in the Hessen Ried, close to the Rhine.

This walk took me over the fields and through a bit of forest just east of Biblis. I knew from the internet that this area saw a lot of activity during World War II and that a Luftwaffe airfield had been built nearby. Luckily, the site of the airfield lay on the trail, though now it is an event and equestrian center called the Gaststätte Jägerhof. 

After my hike, I did more research and came across an interesting exert from a book by Peter Fink called "Der Flugplatz der Luftwaffe zwischen Biblis und Einhausen (1936-1945)".  What follows is a translated summary of a small section of Mr. Fink's book related to the airfield.

In 1936, Biblis, like quite a few other communities in the Rhein-Main area had been chosen as the site of a military airfield. Military administration had specific requirements when choosing sites for a such a facility.  For example, the airfield would have to be located near a railway line, and there had to be the possibility to lay down access roads. Building plans must include the possibility to have a tank facility and agricultural buildings should be included for both camouflage and to provide for the needs of those stationed at the airfield. There were also rules regarding the connection of electricity, the installation of drains and the ability to expand buildings.

At the same time as construction was occurring in Biblis, airfields were being built in other parts of the Rhine-Main area, for example at Geinsheim, Darmstadt-Griesheim, Gross-Ostheim and Zellhausen. In addition, mock airfields were created for camouflage. One such facility was located just south of the Boxheimer Hof winery in Abenheim, near Worms.

In the late autumn of 1936, work began, providing employment for many of the local citizens. 135 hectares of forest was cleared. The area was then plowed and leveled, using huge steam plows made by the company Ottomeier from Bad Pyrmont. Subsequently, drainage pipes were installed on the entire site and a sewer system was built with collection tanks and a pumping system, which directed the accumulated water into the Weschnitz River. At that time, the Hessen Ried did not benefit from the drainage system it has today, and the area was still quite marshy and wet. The groundwater lay no further than a meter underground and could often be found just a few decimeters below the surface, making construction difficult and the need for adequate drainage extremely important.

It was not until 1940 that the airfield at Biblis was reported as complete. The announcement listed the various components which had been constructed up to that point, including: runways, washrooms, latrines, a canteen, a kitchen, sleeping barracks for both officers and men, roads, railway platforms, as well as, the drainage system. There were also nearby fuel storage tanks, munition stores, underground bunkers, anti-aircraft towers, and a beacon system. A barn and farmstead, built to appear as a typical Hessen farm, are also reported to have been constructed. Though the airfield was listed as complete at that time, it was under constant expansion during most of the war, including the addition of landing facilities for night flights and the lengthening of runways.

Planes at the Biblis Airfield

The airfield was occupied during the war by a number of military and civilian units, including a transport squadron made up of Junker JU-52 aircraft and Savoia-Marchetti S. M. 81s.  These planes were used for material and ambulance transport, though the Savoias were also used as bombers. Shortly before the end of the war (between October 1944 and March 1945), the world's first jet-powered bomber aircraft, the Arado Ar 234, was also in use at Biblis.

Witnesses observed that in the summer of 1940, between 30 to 40 Do-17 bombers flew west each day on bombing campaigns in France. The Do-17, also known as the Fliegender Bleistift ("flying pencil"), was designed as a Schnellbomber ("fast bomber"), which, in theory, was so fast that it could outrun defending fighter aircraft.  

Do-17s or Fliegender Bleistifte

A complete list of squadrons stationed at Biblis is no longer available; however,  it is known that parts of the Ace Squadron, in which well-known fighter pilot, Werner Mölders, was assigned, were temporarily stationed in Biblis. Adolf Galland, another highly decorated Luftwaffe officer, inspected the airfield and pilots there. Also, Metz Battle Squadron 103 trained in Biblis with Junker Ju 87 planes. During their training, the pilots threw down concrete bombs in fields and on the eastern slope of Sachsenbuckel as practice. 

The men from these squadrons were often housed in private quarters throughout the region. For example, in the winter of 1945, airmen were housed in private homes and in the school halls at Langwadan and Fehlheim. In Zwingenberg, other Luftwaffe units were quartered in the school and in an inn. The 1st group of the Nachtjagdgeschwader 11 was a unit specially set up for "Mosquito Hunting", which was to hunt down the very fast, all-purpose British de Havilland aircraft. The fliers from this unit, four officers and 40 men, were initially quartered in Auerbach and Upper Hambach, but were later housed in the hotel "Hufnagel" in Seeheim.

Of course having so many military facilities in the area attracted enemy attention and bombing was inevitable, as were crashes involving both enemy and German aircraft. At the beginning of the war, fallen enemy pilots were still buried with military honors, such as in the case of a French pilot who was downed in 1940 in Gernsheim. Later, however, foreign airmen who crashed or were shot down often had to fear for their lives because the population, upset over attacks on cities and civilians, would shoot or lynch any enemy pilots they found. German pilots sometimes had difficulties when they had to disembark, as well, because the civilian population did not immediately realize that they were pilots of the Luftwaffe.

Dogfights and air raids were a common sight for the area's civilian population. On April 13, 1944, eight to nine aircraft, presumably coming from Mainz, attacked an American bomber group that struck Schweinfurt. After a dogfight, two B-17 bombers crashed in Lautertal near Elmshausen and Reichenbach, and a German plane crashed between Zell and Hambach.

On January 29, 1944, four boys between the ages of 10 and 13 were killed in an attack on Groß-Rohrheim. On the 16th of May 1944, Lampertheim was bombed, and in June 1944, the Allies attacked the Biblis airbase, resulting in  five deaths and the destruction of three transport vehicles. The following day, there were three additional bombing attacks on Langwaden. On July 21, 1944, the Biblis airbase was again attacked, this time by five American P-51 Mustang fighters with on-board weapons, and on September 27, 1944 at midday, there was a bombing raid on the airfield, leaving behind four dead and two wounded. Five planes were either destroyed or damaged. On the 8th and 15th of October in the same year, there were renewed attacks on the airfield in Biblis, resulting in more damage.

Around the turn of the year 1944/45, a hospital train was attacked in or near Bensheim station, and on February 14, 1945 a train between Heppenheim and Laudenbach was also bombed. In fact, there were so many raids that railway transport soon became possible only at night; however, this did not always prevent tragedy. In the night of February 16, 1945, there was an attack on a train 500 meters away from Gross Rohrheim in which 13 people lost their life. From the summer of 1944, it also became very dangerous for the rural population to work the fields, and it was often reported that American airmen would target civilians.

The last two years of the war saw an ever-increasing frequency of bomb attacks. On Christmas eve in 1944, a total of 864 bombers left southeast England headed for western Germany. The aircraft planned for Biblis flew over the Taunus, and then turned east to the Vogelsberg and over Frankfurt before beginning their bombing campaign over the Hessen Ried. The British bombers were aided by 100 bombers (Boeing B17) from the American 3rd Air Division and 42 escort aircraft, probably fighter-bombers and scouts. This division participated in the bombing of Biblis, as well as, attacks on Babenhausen, Zellhausen, Groß-Ostheim and Darmstadt-Griesheim. 

Boeing B-17 Flying Fortress

The American bombers came from the north, arriving in Biblis at around 2.30 in the afternoon and dropped 325.8 tons of bombs on the airfield and its surroundings. The bombs fell on the runways, fields and forest, with over 300 explosions on the runway alone. American records indicate that at least seven Me 109s were destroyed, and more were damaged; however, the Americans did not get away unscathed as two of their own planes were shot down by German anti-aircraft fire. 

After hostile attacks such as this, the population of the surrounding area were made to help repair the resulting damage. Local citizens, as well as, inmates in various prison camps were forced to participate, such as Russians and Poles from a camp near Groß-Hausen and Greeks from a camp near the Biblis railroad crossing to Wattenheim. Unfortunately for the laborers, another attack came on Christmas day when they were busy making the repairs, killing and wounding some of the workers.

As the allies advanced, the occupation of the airfield became ever more dangerous, and, eventually, more and more movable components were transferred from the airfield to the surrounding villages and preparations were made for evacuation. Then, on March 10, 1945, the order was issued: "Prepare all places west of Bad Homburg - Offenbach - Dieburg - Eberbach for short-term and lasting destruction, remove material and equipment." 

It was reported on March 17, 1945, that the company stationed at the airfield left Biblis at 13:55. On March 20, at 16:05, the order was given to begin the repatriation of the soldiers and female personnel stationed in Biblis itself, and on March 21, it was reported that Biblis was no longer occupied by Luftwaffe Command West. 

German infantry and antiaircraft fighters continued, however, to resist the Allied advancement in the area; though they, too, were soon forced to withdraw, and on Monday, March 26th, German soldiers blew up the Weschnitz bridge, the jetty and the bridge over the motorway in their retreat west. 

The American 850th Engineer Aviation Battalion arrived at the airfield on the 1st of April 1945, and by the next day they had laid down a 1,500 square meter mesh track and sod runway, using the captured army buildings as a support area. The airfield was designated as Advanced Landing Ground "Y-78 Biblis" and was the first airfield built to support the Seventh Army operations east of the Rhine after two divisions crossed the river near Worms on March 25th. 

The American Twelfth Air Force 27th Fighter Bomber Group moved in almost immediately with its A-36 Apache ground-attack aircraft and began flying missions in the Ruhr. The 27th attacked enemy troop formations, motorized vehicles, armored vehicles and bridges to keep the German forces pinned down while the United States First and Ninth Armies moved up to meet the British XXIst Army Group coming down from the north. By April 4th, the encirclement was complete, eventually forcing the surrender of over 300,000 German troops and their equipment. This victory eliminated serious opposition by the German Armed forces in Western Germany. The 27th Fighter Bomber Group remained at Biblis, supporting American troops as they advanced eastward, before closing the airfield in July of 1945.  

After the war, civilians in the area wanted to rebuild structures which had been damaged during the war, and the use of rubble and other materials from the destroyed airfield offered a practical solution. Many houses were rebuilt using material from the airfield and the mats used for the runways were often re-purposed as garden fences. 

Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty transmitter site, Biblis

In 1951 the western part of the airfield site was leased to the National Committee for a Free Europe, New York, and permission for a transmitter was soon granted. The building which houses these operations was constructed out of some of the rubble from the airfield buildings and is still in use today. From this station, the propaganda channel for Eastern Europe, Radio Free Europe, was transmitted. 

Remnants of this tragic history can still be seen in the forests and fields surrounding the site of the old airfield. If you would like to know more about the history of the area during the second World War, you can take a walk over near Biblis, but be sure to stick to the footpaths, as live munitions are still sometimes found in the area.  Much more information is also available in Mr. Fink's book (written in German). 

Sources:

“Einsatzhafen Der Luftwaffe Bei Biblis.” Morr-Siedelsbrunn - Einsatzflughafen Biblis, www.morr-siedelsbrunn.de/wkii/einsatzflughafen-biblis/.

Fink, Peter. Der Flugplatz Der Luftwaffe Zwischen Biblis Und Einhausen.

British Hobby Crafter, Sam Jackson, Finds Her Niche in Germany

Sam Jackson Displays Some of Her Crafts

One of the main purposes for this series, "People in the Odenwald", is to introduce local ex-pats who have put their talents and interests to use, not only to offer a service or product, but to also make their own life more fulfilling and, in doing so, inspire others. For today's article,  I spoke with craft enthusiast Sam Jackson about her love of crafting, the projects she has on the go and how she sees her hobby developing in the future.

Sam, who moved to the region from England eleven years ago, now lives in Griesheim with her husband, John; eight-year-old son, Max and three British short-haired cats:  Shadow, Teddy and Missy. She has drawn on both her formal training and natural  talent to create a wide variety of craft products, using a variety of different materials and media. 

English Speaking Odenwald (ESO): Sam, I know that you're quite busy, so I want to thank you for taking time from your schedule to sit down with me today. You refer to yourself as a "hobby-crafter". Can you tell our readers what that is exactly?

Sam:  A hobby crafter is someone who is involved in crafting as a hobby. They are not reliant upon it for their living, unlike a professional who produces handicrafts as a job.

ESO: I follow your Facebook (FB) page, so I know that you make quite a few different items. Can you tell us about some of the craft projects that you have done in the past and what you are currently working on?

Some of Sam's Fabric Crafts  

Sam: I make quite a few fabric items, and do a lot of sewing. I make bags, purses, coin purses, pencil cases, things like that. I make three-tiered cake stands from porcelain plates and cups, and I've also started making a few things from willow, plant trellises, for example.

ESO: I'm quite familiar with your bags, as I have a couple myself, and I saw on your FB page that you upholster furniture. Can you tell me about that? Where do you get the furniture?

Chair Upholstered by Sam

Sam: Yes, I have upholstered a bit of furniture and, as a matter of fact, I have a project on the go now, an umbrella/coat stand which I'm in the process of up-cycling. I get the furniture from people who are throwing things away, classified ads, Facebook groups, places like that.

ESO: You certainly have a wide variety of craft interests. Which projects do you enjoy doing the most?

Sam: It really depends on my mood. I can be sat down doing sewing for a week, preparing for a market, and then I think, "I've had enough of that."  Then it's nice to do something else. I enjoy all of it. For example, at the moment, I've just started working with willow again because the weather's nice, so I want to get outside and do more in the garden.  

 Succulent Plants

I also sell succulents in recycled pots. So, yes, now that the weather's nice, I'm out doing the planting, getting them ready for the markets; getting the willow soaked, that kind of thing. It also depends on what stock I need, as well. If I'm preparing for a market, I will sometimes have to concentrate on one particular project, such as the sewing. 

ESOC: So that leads to my next question. Which of your projects are the most popular? Which do other people tend to like the most, I mean.

Sam: As for which projects are the most popular, people are most familiar with my cake stands and fabric items, and it's about 50/50 as far as which they like best. People tend to want quite a few of my small, open bags; coin purses and pencil cases. 

ESO: What was the first market you participated in? 

Sam: My first market was a Shabby Chic market in Gross Gerau about one and a half years ago. I haven't been doing them for very long, but I do quite a few markets with a friend of mine. It's helpful going with her because she knows some markets that are going on, and I find others. If one of us needs a break, we also cover each other's stall when we're at the same market. We do quite a few markets together because our products are different, but they complement each other.

ESO: How difficult was it for you to go to your first market?  I suppose you were nervous.

Willow Plant Trellis

Sam: My first market, I was lucky because you could set up the day before. My husband and son came with me to set up.  That was helpful, but I had no idea how my products would be received. I only had my fabric items at the time, and, yes, I was very nervous. The following market my friend was with me, and that makes it easier, but this year I'm on my second year of markets, so it's not as daunting now. 

ESO:  I know you say you're a hobby crafter, but you make some very beautiful products. I could see you turning this into a business at some point, rather than just doing it as a hobby. Where do you see your crafting going in five years time?

Sam:  That depends on where we are. I assume we'll still be here in Germany, and in that case, I suspect it will remain much the same as it is, just as a hobby. I think the amount of crafting that I do will stay roughly the same.

ESO:  What about in ten years?  Any changes?

Sam:  If we're in Germany, no, but if we're in England, it's a different story. I would most probably turn my crafting from a hobby into a profession, possibly with a shop. I have thought about having a shop where other crafters could rent space or sell on commission, something along those lines. It's nice to have a variety of products to offer buyers. I have a fairly large range myself, but by involving other sellers, you'd have even more product.

ESO: That's a good idea, somewhat like a co-op.

Sam: Yes, exactly. I'm part of a large group in England, and I see shops of this type advertising that they have space for vendors. They seem to be becoming more popular there.

Fabric Crafts

ESO:  Do you think that's because purchasing local handicrafts ties in with people's desire to buy ethically-made goods. I know, for myself, one reason I wanted a bag from you is because I know where it comes from, that it was ethically made, which is important to me.

Sam:  I think so, yes. The shops do seem to be becoming more popular, and it makes sense that there would be that connection.

ESO:  How did you get into crafting? Do you have any formal training?

Sam:  Yes, I went to college and studied something craft-related. I studied jewelry design, though because I've moved around a bit, I never really got into making jewelry. I've always had something on the go, however, knitting, cross stitch, embroidery. I also paint, though not as much as I used to. I think I just got to the point that we had been in Germany for so long that I thought, "Well, let's try to do some markets, and see how it goes."

Three-Tiered Cake Stand

ESO: Research has shown that a lot of ex-pats suffer from depression and other mental health issues, often because they feel isolated and have left past careers, etc.. Do you feel that having a hobby like crafting could help people who are depressed or feel disconnected from social networks?

Sam:  I think so. Even though I'm a hobbyist, crafting does keep me busy. If I feel that I need to be doing something, I always have a project to turn to. Also, if I  haven't seen anyone for a long time, the markets get me out of the house. I've already booked two markets for as far away as December. 

ESO:  So what do you do when you're not crafting?  Do you have any favorite places you like to go, things you enjoy doing in your spare time?

Sam:  Crafting normally takes up most of my time, that or working on the house. I do like to spend time with my family and my cats. We do normal family things together, trips and that kind of things.  We like to go to the Jugendstilbad (indoor swimming pool) in Darmstadt, other swimming pools, and my son, Max, likes Legoland.

ESO:  What is your advice for people who may want to get into crafting?

Sam: Have a go!  Just have a go, and then perhaps get involved with a local group and see what they think of your product. You never know unless you try. Not all of my products are successful, and you will sometimes fail, but just have a go. You may have some failures, but you'll also have some successes.

ESO: I think that's excellent advice. Thank you so much for allowing us to learn a bit about what you do and, possibly inspiring a few people to try their hand at crafting. 

To learn more about the products Sam has on offer, visit her Facebook Page, Handmade by SamJ, at: https://www.facebook.com/handmadebysamj/

Wildlife Park Brudergrund - A Place to Relax for Young and Old

Wildlife Park Brudergrund

If you're looking for a short outing of an hour or so, the Wildlife Park Brudergrund in Erbach, which first opened in 1956, is the perfect place. The nearly 14-hectare park features different types of deer, wild sheep, and wild boar in a natural environment. There are also small ponds were visitors can see ducks and other water fowl, and a variety of birds and insects native to the local environment can be seen in the surrounding forest. 

The park features a beautiful network of nature trails, informational guides and a grilling area to further enhance your visit, and there is also a feeding station at the park where visitors can purchase food for the animals. The relatively large boxes of feed quickly attract the park residents, allowing you to get a close-up view of species that usually stay hidden in the forest. This makes the park especially interesting for families with small children because these normally shy animals like to venture to the fence when they see visitors holding food packs. 

The best way to view the park is to take a walk on the circular path that runs along the animal

enclosure.  The trail includes benches, pavilions, a viewing platform and a bridge, allowing you to have a rest along the way or perhaps enjoy a picnic.  Along the trail, you'll also see information placards that give details about the animals, their habitat, insects, birds and flora that can be found in the park. 

While the park does not feature exotic animals, it still makes a great destination for a Sunday afternoon or weekday, especially for families with small children who wish to spend a few hours getting in touch with nature.  The park is open year-round and, best of all, it's free to enter. 

The Wildlife Park Brudergrund, lies just outside the town of Erbach in the direction of Unter-Mossau. From Erbach, take the B45 to Mossauerstrasse (K49), following the brown tourist signs to Wildpark. There is a car park across the K49 from Brudergrund, but take care when crossing the street. 

Oye! Oye! What Does the Town Crier Have to Say?

der Ausscheller
Photo by Bliss Poppet

I recently started my latest long-distance hike, the Nibelungensteig, and, while the official start of the trail is in Zwingenberg on the Bergstrasse, there are three "feeder paths" which start at the edge of the Rhine in the Hessian Ried part of the Odenwald park. The Hessian-Ried, lying between the Rhine River to the west and the Bergstrasse to the east, is not the most interesting place for a walk, as it's flat, low-lying agricultural land, but because I'm writing a guide for the trail, I felt it had to be done. 

About six kilometers into the walk, the path took me to the little village of Hofheim-Lampertheim. Hofheim, with a population of about 5,200 inhabitants, is thought to have been founded in Frankish times, during the 5th or 6th century. Though a small village, it boasts an outstanding 18th-century parish church, St. Micheal, which was built by the famous architect Balthasar Neumann, as well as an historic town hall, also from the 18th century.

The town hall is an attractive little building with a plaque attached to the outside wall, detailing certain historic events which have occurred in the region and had an impact on the building itself (or buildings as it has been destroyed and rebuilt several times). The plaque mentions the town hall's destruction at the hands of Spanish troops during the Thirty Years War and then, later, by French troops during the Napoleonic Wars. The sign also details different events concerning the construction and renovation of the building, and while these events are interesting, what really caught my eye was the nearby statue of a man holding a bell and a sheet of paper.  

Historic Town Hall
Photo by Bliss Poppet

The plaque describes the man as an "Ausscheller", a term I had never heard. After a bit of internet investigation, I learned that an Ausscheller is actually a town crier. The plaque goes on to detail a bit about the terms of the Ausscheller's employment and some of the news he may have announced. One of his announcements I found to be quite amusing. Here is a rough translation of the information on the sign:

"The Ausscheller was a full or part-time employee of the community whose job it was to spread official announcements or other matters in the village. At various intersections or street corners, he announced himself by ringing a loud bell, and he would then deliver the respective news. Examples of announcements he might make were that the electricity or water would be turned off or that, on Monday, no one would be allowed to defecate in the stream since Tuesday was wash day. The loud bell would ring out clearly, and many people would gather around the crier, curious as to what he had to report."

So now you, like I, know what an Ausscheller is.  

If you wish to see the statue yourself or visit the town hall or Neumann's single-nave, baroque church, take a drive, train journey or a (rather flat) walk over to the village of Hofheim near the Rhine. 

Balthasar Neumann's Baroque Church in Hofheim
Roland Hahn - Selbst fotografiert, Gemeinfrei, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=63448752

Dmitri (Tristan) Leaptrott Discusses his New Book "Siegfried and the Nibelungs"

King Gunther and Hagen watch Siegfried's entry to Worms

Was the princely knight Siegfried, hero of the Rhineland and Odenwald, really a wolf?  Could Queen Brunhild have been a bear? Maybe not in the original story, but there is no reason why they can’t be now, or at least that’s the idea of local artist Tristani Leaptrott, who specializes in anthropomorphic art and works under the name "Dmitri Leaptrott".

Dmitri, who comes from the United States, recently moved to the Odenwald and quickly became enchanted with the story of Siegfried and the tale of the Nibelungs. It wasn’t long before he decided to put his talents to work to reinvent Siegfried and his companions, and while the hero’s exploits remain largely unchanged from the original Germanic sagas, the characters themselves have taken on a new appearance. Dmitri is currently working on a children’s picture book that will be written in English and feature the characters of the Nibelung saga in anthropomorphic form. I sat down with Dmitri to find out more about his work and what he envisions for his upcoming book. 

Interview

English Speaking Odenwald (ESO): First of all, thank you for taking the time out to speak with me.  Could you start off by telling us a bit about the story of Siegfried and the Nibelungs?

Dmitri: Yes. It’s a very interesting tale taken from Germanic sagas written down in the 12th century, though the action takes place during the 5th century. Most of the action occurs in and around the German city of Worms, which, at the time, was the capital of a Germanic tribe called the Burgundians. 

Siegfried is a prince from the Netherlands, who comes to Worms to wed the sister of the Burgundian king, Gunther. The story begins with the Burgundian knight, Hagen, telling King Gunter about the exploits of Siegfried, how he acquired the hoard of the Nibelungs and how he later made his skin impenetrable by killing a dragon and bathing in its blood. Siegfried does end up marrying the king’s sister, Kriemhild, but he is later betrayed by the Burgundians and killed. 

ESO: That sounds like an exciting story and one that would appeal to kids. They usually like a bit of blood and gore. 

Dmitri Leaptrott at Work
on his book "Siegfried and the Nibelungs

Dmitri: It has the potential to be a bit gory, but I’ll tone it down so that it can be enjoyed by younger children because it will be a picture book, geared towards six to ten year old kids.

ESO:  What made you choose the Nibelung saga as the subject of your first picture book?

Dmitri: I think a lot of it has to do with just being here in the Odenwald. I enjoy hiking, and where I walk in the woods, I’ve encountered places associated with Siegfried and the saga, such as the spring where he was supposedly killed. Of course, I know that it’s a legend, but there are so many place and street names associated with the sagas that it almost seems as if it were real. Also, since coming here, I’ve spent a lot of time reading about the legend and have visited the Nibelungen Museum in Worms. I've always liked a good story with heroes and villains. 

I also wanted to write about Siegfried because I find him to be such an heroic character. He is a nice guy, a loyal friend, who goes out of his way to do kind things for others, such as helping Gunther and the Nibelungs but he is always betrayed.  He is a bit of a tragic hero. 

ESO: I’ve read the saga myself and know that it’s a bit long.  Will it really work as a picture book for children?

Dmitri: I’ve condensed the story and am really keeping the focus on Siegfried: his coming to Worms, the meeting with Gunter and Kriemhild, his helping Gunter win the hand of Brunhild and then the final betrayal in which he is killed. There is, of course, more to the story such as when the Burgundians fight Attila and the Huns, but I really want to focus on Siegfried. 

ESO: You’ve chosen to portray the saga’s characters in anthropomorphic form. Can you tell me a bit more about that?

Dmitri: Well, I’m a huge fan of the furry community and most of my art centers around that style, so I coupled my appreciation of anthropomorphic art with the fact that animal characters normally appeal to children.  

ESO: You say, "the furry community".  Can you tell us what that is exactly?

Dmitri:  It's a subculture where the members are interested in, and often dress up as, animal characters.  The characters have the physical appearance of animals but also exhibit human characteristics and personalities. Members of the furry community usually meet up at conventions or other events. There are also internet groups where they exchange ideas, that kind of thing.  Each person usually chooses an animal that they identify with. We call it a "fursona". 

ESO:   That sounds quite interesting.  I'd like to ask you a bit more about that later, but first, could you tell me what animals have you chosen to portray Siegfried and his companions?

Dmitri: I decided to stick with animals that would have been found in the area during the 5th century, giving each Germanic tribe a different animal. Siegfried is a wolf, the Burgundians are various breeds of dog, the Nibelungs are boars and Brunhild is a bear. 

ESFE: I really like that you've chosen animals that would have lived in the area in the 5th century. When do you anticipate having the book finished?  

Dmitri: A large part of the work has already been done, which is the research part. First, I had to summarize the saga, which is fairly long, 178 pages in the translation I am working with. I also visited some the sites associated with the legend, researched period costumes, that kind of thing. The research took several months. 

Now, I’m getting to the fun part, at least for me as an artist. I have just finished working on the concept sketches and have moved on to the final watercolors. I will then write the text of the story, or I may have someone else do that part. I’m more of an artist than a writer, and contracting that work out will allow me to move on to other projects. 

ESO (laughing): I’m always looking for work. But, seriously, what other projects are you thinking of for the future.

Dmitri: I always have a few commissions on the go, and I'm starting up my costume and design manufacturing here in Europe. I am also toying with the idea of creating more picture books based on sagas from the Odenwald and maybe later, hosting a few small furry events here. This is such a beautiful part of Germany, and in my travels around, I often see venues that would be ideal for hosting informal furry meet-ups. Of course, I know it will take time to establish  myself here, but I'm patient. 

ESO: Those projects sound exciting. I wanted to ask you a bit more about your participation in the furry community. How did you get involved with it and do you have an animal character that you identify with?

Dmitri:  Sure. I’ve been part of the fandom since I was eleven. Early cartoons such as Disney movies helped developed my interest in anthropomorphic characters. From there, I started attending conventions when I was 18. I’m primarily involved as an artist and costume maker. It’s a fun and interesting hobby where I meet lots of new and exciting people.

The animal I identify with, my fursona, is a spotted hyena; to be specific he’s a space pirate. He’s a Robin Hood-type character who travels throughout the galaxy, stealing from the rich to give to the poor. His name is Lazer.

ESO: Why did you want to move to Europe and how do you see your work progressing now that you're here? 

Dmitri: I thought it would be an opportunity to have a better life in a beautiful country. I probably don't need to go into the current state of politics there, as everyone is aware of it. I have family here, as well.  I wanted to be closer to them. 

As far as how I see my work progressing, I would like to become more involved with local anthropomorphic conventions, so that I can share my art with a new market and make more amazing friends.  I really hope to develop the costume-production side of my business and incorporate the sagas and legends of the area into both my digital and traditional art. I will see how successful this new children's book is and perhaps, if things work out well, I'll do a few more.  

ESO: I'm sure the our community will be seeing lots more from you. I know that i interrupted your work, so I’ll let you get back to it.  Thank you for taking them time to discuss your book and I wish you all the best.

Worms - The Nibelung Capital

Gateway to  into Worms from Across the Rhine

Lying just outside Hessen, on the west bank of the Rhine, the city of Worms is not technically part of the Odenwald; however, it should still be on the itinerary of anyone wishing to learn more about the area's vibrant history.  Worms, as the old capital of the Kingdom of Burgundy, is the beating heart of the Nibelung lands, a primary focal point of the Siegfried legend, which permeates the Odenwald region. 

History

The Celts and Romans

Roman Statue of Neptune
in Cathedral

The city of Worms, in the state of Rhineland-Palatinate, is one of the oldest cities in Germany, having existed since Celtic times, and it is the only city in Germany to be included in the Most Ancient European Towns Network. During the Celtic era, the city was called Borbetomagus, which possibly meant “water meadow”. The city was later taken from the Celts by the Germanic Vangiones, and then in 14 BC, by the Romans under the command of Drusus, who fortified the city and stationed a small garrison there.

The city grew under Roman occupation and became a small town with a regular street layout, a forum and temples to the major Roman gods: Mars, Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. The town not only developed its own industry, with local potters working in the south quarter, but it also benefited from trade with other parts of the Roman Empire, including Hispania Baetica on the Iberian Peninsula. Today, you can see artifacts from the time of the Romans in the city archaeological museum, including one of the largest collections of Roman glass in Europe. 

The Kingdom of the Burgundians

Siegfried's Well

In the late third century, the Burgundians and other Vandal tribes moved west towards the Roman frontiers along the eastern side of the Rhine river and began attacking the Romans. The Burgundians were either a Germanic or Vandal tribe who lived in the area of modern Poland during the time of the Roman Empire, though it is thought that prior to living in Poland, they may have come from mainland Scandinavia, possibly by way of the Baltic Island of Bornholm before finding their way to the Odenwald.

The Greek historian, Zosimos, reports that the Burgundians were defeated by the emperor Probus in 278. Later the Roman official, Claudius Mamertinus, mentioned them, along with the Alemanni, as people who lived in the Agri Decumates, an area that roughly corresponds to today’s Odenwald. The two tribes would, at times, fight both the Romans and each other, and in 369/70, the Burgundians helped Emperor Valentinian I in his fight against the Alemanni. 

By the early 5th century, some of the Burgundians had migrated westward across the Rhine and had settled as foederati in the Roman province of Germania Secunda. Their status as foederati meant that the Romans provided certain benefits in exchange for the tribes’ military assistance. This status allowed the Burgundians to become quite powerful, and they soon had influence with the Roman administration. 

Kaiser's Portal at the Cathedral
Legend says it's the site of the infamous
fight between Brunhild and Kiemhild

In 411, the Burgundian king, Gunther (also known as Gundahar), together with the the king of the Alans, Goar, set up a puppet Roman emperor named Jovinus. Jovinus was only able to keep his position for two years, but during that time, under the pretext of imperial authority, Gunther was able to establish a Burgundian kingdom on the west side of the Rhine between the Lauter and Nahe Rivers. The capital of the kingdom was present day Worms. The area was later officially awarded to the Burgundians by Emperor Honorius as part of a truce. 

Despite their status as foederati, the Burgundians continued to raid the Roman territory of upper Gallia Belgica, and in 436 the Romans called for help from Hun mercenaries under the rule of Attila the Hun in order to oust the Burgundians. Gundahar and a majority of the Burgundian tribe were killed in the fighting, and the Burgundian Kingdom, along with its capital of Worms was destroyed. The Nibelung saga is based on this period of Burgundian history.

Medieval Worms

Worms has been the seat of a bishopric since Roman times; however, it was during the time of the Frankish Empire, under Charlemagne, that it became an important administrative center, where the emperor built one of the many palaces he sprinkled throughout his growing empire. The duties of Charlemagne’s bishops were not just limited to the spiritual realm, as they were also responsible for the administration of the city and surrounding territory. This sphere of influence continued up until the high middle ages when the city became officially Protestant during the Reformation. 

After the decline of the Carolingian Empire (which included the rule of Charlemagne), the Duchy of Franconia emerged in the early 10th century. The duchy was also known as the Salian dynasty and was founded by Werner of Worms and his son, Duke Conrad the Red of Lorraine. Worms was an important Franconian administrative center; however, it began to receive some degree of autonomy under Emperor Henry III and later became an Imperial Free City, subject to no authority except that of the emperor. 

Beginning in 1489, free cities were given a voice in the assemblies of the Holy Roman Empire. The assemblies were called “Diets” and some of the most famous were held at Worms, the most important being the 1521 Diet of Worms in which the reformist, Martin Luther, was declared a heretic. He came before the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V, to answer accusations of heresy at the bishop’s palace, which, until 1689, stood just next to St. Peter’s Cathedral in what is now the Heyshof Garden. 

During the Thirty Years War, Swedish troops invaded Worms and held it from 1632 to 1635, a time that brought not only the hardship of occupation, but also an outbreak of the plague.  

The Modern Era

One of the most devastating events to have occurred in Worms was in 1689 during the Nine Years War. The French king, Louis XIV, seeking to enlarge his territory, decided to invade the Rhineland; putting him into conflict with, among others, the Holy Roman Empire. Though the war is considered by some as the first global war, the land around the Rhine, including Worms, saw some of the heaviest fighting and suffered tremendously.  

The city was again occupied by the French in 1792 shortly after France declared war on Prussia and Austria in that same year, and by 1801 it had been annexed into the First French Empire and secularized, a fate shared by many “Germanic” possessions west of the Rhine. Worms remained French until after the defeat of Napoleon, at which point it was given to the Grand Duchy of Hessen at the Congress of Vienna.

World War II once again brought destruction and turmoil to Worms, unparalleled since the Nine Years War in the 17th century. Worms was considered a strategic stronghold because of its position on the Rhine and those defending the city fought tenaciously. The city, therefore, suffered much devastation, particularly during RAF bombings in February and March of 1945. It is estimated that almost 40% of the city was destroyed and over 200 citizens were killed in both the bombings and subsequent invasion by the American Army a short time after the bombings.

After the war, Worms, like so many other similarly-affected cities began to rebuild. The cathedral, which had been damaged by fire, was repaired and the buildings in the downtown area were replaced by new construction in the post-modern style. Additionally, the city, excluding those parts on the eastern side of the Rhine, became part of the newly-formed state of Rhineland-Palatinate. 

Today, Worms is a thriving city with a population of approximately 82,000 people. It boasts a variety of cultural activities, sporting events, festivals and activities for all ages. 

Sites of Interest

St. Peter’s Cathedral

No visit to Worms would be complete without a visit to St. Peter’s Cathedral, which has dominated the city skyline since its construction in the 12th and 13th centuries. The cathedral stands on the highest hill in Worms, a place that has been occupied since Celtic times, and was the location of a Roman forum and temple to Minerva. In 600 A.D., Queen Brunhilda of Austrasia and her successor, Dagobert I, had a church built on top of the Roman ruins and this was the predecessor of the cathedral we have today.

South Side of the Cathedral
Ato 01 -, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=25148545

Bishop Buchard of Worms began the layout of a new cathedral on the site in the 11th century; however, much of the building was damaged and rebuilt over time, with only the foundations of the west tower and the choir to the north surviving until the 12th century, when building took place on the late Romanesque structure that you see now. The cathedral continued to be enlarged and embellished into the 15th century with the addition of chapels, a south portal and stone reliefs, among others. 

Like the city surrounding it, the cathedral was not immune to the changing political landscape of the area. During the Thirty Years War, the cathedral was used for Protestant services during the city’s occupation by Swedish troops. French forces attempted to demolish the cathedral with a bomb in the Nine Years War, resulting in it incurring much fire damage. The building was later sacked by French troops during the Revolutionary Wars, at which time it was used as a stable and tavern. During World War Two, the cathedral again suffered damage due to bombing, but luckily only parts of the exterior and the roof were affected, the interior remaining largely unscathed. 

Other Churches

Church of Holy Trinity

Other churches of note in Worms include the Reformation Church of the Holy Trinity, which is the largest Protestant church in Worms. This large baroque church was built between 1709 - 1725 and 1955 - 1959.  

St. Paul’s Church, built by Bishop Buchard in 1016 on the site of an earlier Salian ducal castle, was originally in the Romanesque style and had three aisles, a Romanesque choir and octagonal dome. It also housed a Dominican monastic order until French secularization in the latter part of the 18th century. St. Paul’s  suffered throughout the years as a result of the city’s political turmoil and was almost completely destroyed in the Nine Years War. It was rebuilt with Baroque architectural features in 1717, but was again almost reduced to rubble in the bombing campaigns of World War II.

The church has undergone many changes that reflected the political turmoil in the city, serving at times as a storage facility, a hay barn and, and a museum.  Today, the house is not only a place of holy worship, but it again (since the 1920s) houses a monastic order of Dominican monks.

St Andrew’s Collegiate Church was first founded before 1000 as a mountain monastery outside the city; however, Bishop Burchard had the church moved to Worms in 1020. Despite the poor quality of the building material, the Romanesque church stood relatively unscathed until the French invasions during the Nine Years War, when it was burned down.  

St. Andrews Church 

The church was rebuilt in 1761, but another French incursion, this time during the revolutionary wars, brought more changes with the French push towards secularization. The windows in the basement of the church were knocked out to create wide arches to provide access for the Worms fire brigade and city hearse, which were both housed in the church at that time.  

The church was again heavily damaged in World War Two, but was restored by 1953. Unfortunately, engineers identified significant cracks in the masonry caused by subsidence, putting the entire central nave in danger of collapsing. Major works were completed on the church, financed in part by donations from the German Foundation for Monument Protection, and, today, the church houses the Worms City Museum and continues to be restored bit-by-bit. 

St Martin’s Church is Worm’s smallest church and one of its oldest, with archaeological evidence and a dedication pointing to its existence as far back as the 8th century. Part of the structure from that time still exists in the north wall of the nave. According to a legend, St. Martin of Tours was held as a prisoner in the dungeon beneath the church. St. Martin’s is the oldest Lutheran church in southwest Germany, and Martin Luther stayed and preached in the church during the famous 1521 Diet of Worms. Like so many structures in the city, the church was destroyed and rebuilt as a result of the Nine Years War and World War Two.

Church of Our Lady (Liebfrauenkirche) is significant for several reasons, one being that it lends its name to the infamous Liebfraumilch semi-sweet white wine that is sold mostly as export. The wine originally came from the vineyards surrounding the church; however, now the name is applied to wine from the regions of Rhine-Hessen, Palatinate, the Rhine Gorge and the Nahe. The church is also the only church on the Rhine between the major cathedrals of Strasbourg and Cologne to be built in the purely Gothic style, and it is the only surviving Gothic church in Worms.

Luther Monument 

As is appropriate, Worms is the site of the largest monument to Martin Luther and the reformation in the world. The monument is in the form of an 1868 stone and bronze, rectangular structure that poses Martin Luther as the central figure, standing above other important people who played a part in the reformation, as well as, personifications of the locations central to the reformation story. 

The Luther Monument

The monument was the brainchild of a grammar school teacher and school dean; however, the artist Ernst Rietschel designed the work, which allows visitors to walk onto the structure, among the figures portrayed there. Rietschel was able to complete the statues of Luther and Wyclif before his death in 1860, after which, three of his students completed the work.  The inauguration of the monument was attended by the then Prussian king, who would later become Kaiser Wilhelm I.  

Rashi Shul Synagogue, Jewish Quarter and Jewish Cemetery

The Jewish Cemetary

Like Mainz and Cologne, Worms has one of Germany’s oldest Jewish communities. Though some scholars assume that the community is much older, the first written evidence of Jews living in Worms is through a document which states that Jews from the city attended a fair in Cologne around the year 1000.  

Located in the city’s old Jewish Quarter, the Rashi Shul synagogue is considered the oldest synagogue in Germany. The first structure to be built on the site of the synagogue was constructed in 1034, but it, like its Christian counterparts, suffered damage or was destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries, dependent upon the political climate of the time. The synagogue was first destroyed in the crusade of 1096 and was rebuilt in the Romanesque style in 1175. The pogroms of 1345 and 1615 resulted in severe damage, and the building was later damaged by fire during the Nine Years War. 

During the Reichspogromnacht (formerly referred to as Kristallnacht) in 1938, the synagogue, like so many in Germany, was reduced to rubble. It was rebuilt, again, in 1961, using many of the original stones. Even today, the synagogue remains a target for those intent on destroying the last vestiges of the Jewish community in Worms. In 2010, arsonists fire-bombed the building, though fortunately, it suffered no substantial damage. The town’s Jewish museum is housed in the Rashi House next to the synagogue.

The Heiliger Sand Jewish Cemetery is one of the oldest and largest surviving Jewish cemeteries in Europe, with the oldest datable tombstone being from the mid-11th century. There are over 2,500 graves in both the older and newer parts of the cemetery. 

Nibelung Museum

Worms is the Nibelung City, once capital of the Burgundian Kingdom, and you can’t visit the town without bumping into vestiges of the old Germanic saga. To help visitors and residents better understand the legend and the part that it has played in history, the city opened a museum dedicated to the Nibelung Saga in 2001.  Here you can take an audiovisual tour which summarizes the legend, explains the differences between the Germanic and Scandinavian versions of the tale and shows how elements of the saga were used in the recent past to further nationalistic ambitions.

History buffs, architectural enthusiast and cultural fans can all find something to keep them entertained in Worms. Don't scratch it off your list because it's a bit outside the Odenwald; instead take a drive just over the Rhine and enjoy a day wandering its many streets and alleys, breathing in the history of times gone by. 

Sources

"Mehr Zur Stadtgeschichte." Mehr Zur Stadtgeschichte Stadt Worms. N.p., n.d. Web. 04 Apr. 2018.

"Sacred Destinations." Worms Synagogue - Worms, Germany. N.p., n.d. Web. 05 Apr. 2018.

"Worms Luther Monument." Lutherdenkmal Luther Worms. N.p., n.d. Web. 05 Apr. 2018.