History
High above the Mümling valley in the northern part of the Odenwald lies the national park’s largest and best-preserved castle, Burg Breuberg. Breuberg Castle, with its striking red sandstone construction, is a prime example of European castle construction during the periods of the 12th through the 17th centuries, reflecting the changes to both defensive and residential requirements over time.
Though, it is assumed that humans occupied Breuberg as far back as the prehistoric age, the castle, along with others in the area such as Veste Otzberg, was founded by Fulda abbey in the early 13th century. The construction of Breuberg castle was directed by the powerful abbot, Marquard I, who sought to protect Fulda Abbey’s territory in the Odenwald from the expansionist ambitions of his rival, the Archbishop of Mainz. As was common at the time, the abbot engaged the services of a powerful local family; in this case, the free lords Reiz von Lützelbach, to administer the territories under its jurisdiction in the area near Breuberg. The abbot also charged the von Lützelbachs with building the castle, and shortly thereafter, the family began to call itself “von Brubere”.
An interesting side note about the family is their connection with Frankenstein’s Castle. The von Breubergs, in the mid-13th century, wanted to increase their scope of power and thus turned their attention to the Wetterau region and the Bergstrasse, where Konrad II built Frankenstein’s Castle and established the free imperial barony of Frankenstein, subject only to the jurisdiction of the Holy Roman Emperor.
The von Breubergs were politically active during the time known as the Staufen period, so called
for the dynasty of German rulers from the House of Staufen during the years 1138 - 1254. The lords of Breuberg sought to increase their political might and independence from the abbey of Fulda by making strategic marriages and providing service to the emperor; however, the power of the Breubergs came to an abrupt end in 1323 with the death of Eberhard III, who left no male heir. At that point, Breuberg Castle became what is known as a "Ganerbenberg", a communally-owned castle, due to its ownership being divided between several noble families.
Breuberg continued to exist as a Ganerbenberg until 1497 when the Counts of Wertheim succeeded in acquiring an 100% ownership of the castle. Count Michael II of Wertheim made Breuberg the family’s main seat and made many renovations and extensions to the complex in order to create a dynastic castle and fortress that would properly reflect the family’s power and prestige. After the death of Michael II in 1556, Breuberg once again became a Ganerbenberg. It remained divided for almost 250 years, with the most noticeable consequences of the division occurring during the Thirty Years War when the Catholic Counts of Löwenstein-Wertheim and the Protestant Counts of Erbach were pitted against each other. The castle would alternate between being a Protestant or Catholic stronghold depending upon which side had the upper hand at any given time.
The castle served as a garrison and place of refuge for the local population, not only during the Thirty Years War, but also during the Polish War of Succession (1733 - 1735) when Franconian grenadiers were stationed at the castle and the War of Austrian Succession (1740 - 1748), when the French occupied Breuberg. Though, the castle never suffered any substantial damage during times of war, its importance as a defensive structure began to wane as advances were made to military technology. Breuberg Castle continued, however, to be an important administrative center for the Löwenstein and Erbach families until 1850 when local administrative offices were moved to Neustadt. Although the Houses of Löwenstein and Erbach lost their sovereign rights to the Grand Duchy of Hesse-Darmstadt in 1806, Breuberg Castle remained in the possession of the Löwenstein and Erbach families until 1942.
Russian and Polish women prisoners of war, many who were forced to work in the nearby Gerner aircraft factories, were held at Breuberg Castle during World War II, and the castle continued to house prisoners after the war until they could be returned to their home countries. Breuberg Castle is, today, in the possession of the State of Hessen and its upkeep is administered by the State Castles and Gardens Administration. A youth hostel has existed at the castle since 1919, and there is also a museum and cafe within the castle walls.
Castle Layout
Access to the castle is from a pathway to the south side of the castle complex. The pathway is flanked on the right by a fortified wall lined with arrow slits. The path brings visitors to a front gateway from the turn of the 16th/17th century, which was once secured by a heavy wooden door and palisade. The front gateway, along with the defensive outworks, protects access to the moat and lower castle gate.
Before you cross the bridge to the outer castle gateway, you’ll see a plaque which tells you that a breed of sheep called “Skudde” are kept in the castle moat. The Skudde are a short-tailed, heather sheep. Its original homeland was East Prussia and the Baltic States, and today there are fewer than 2,000 sheep of this breed still being kept.
Next, you’ll cross the bridge that leads to the outer castle gateway. There was once a drawbridge here to protect the castle. From the bridge, you will see a heavy wooden door with a small pedestrian doorway. This small doorway would allow those on foot to enter the castle complex without having to open the larger gates. Pass through the gate and enter the covered gateway. Both the gate and gateway were constructed around 1500. To the east, you will see the gatehouse, which adjoins the former guardroom.
As you leave the covered gateway, you will enter the bailey, which was first mentioned in 1406. The bailey is probably older than this, built not long after the main castle complex to allow for the expanding needs of the inhabitants. It would have housed various work buildings and the castle gardens. As you step into the bailey, you will see the Johann Casimir building to your left, which now houses the castle museum. According to an inscription on the building, it was constructed 1613 above the castle stables. The Knight’s Hall, on the upper floor of the Johann Casimir building, has a magnificent stucco ceiling with the Casimir family coats-of-arms and scenes from Greek mythology. On the other side of the portal, across from the Casimir building, lies the ruin of the 16th century Föppel Building, with its Renaissance gables.
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| Wertheim Arsenal |
Continue through the bailey, where you will come to the Wertheim arsenal with its Renaissance portal, which presents the bust of an archer with crossbow. The arsenal was built in 1528 by Hans Stainmiller of Wertheim. Leaving the arsenal, you will pass through the Romanesque gateway into the main castle complex. This gateway is thought to have been constructed around 1200, one of the earliest structures at Breuberg. To your left, you will see what is referred to in a document from 1556 as the “ancient building”. This structure housed the dungeon, pump room and other household rooms. Next to the ancient building is a chapel, which was first mentioned in 1357.
Looming high above as you step through the portal is the stone Bergfried, which is in the center of the main courtyard. A Bergfried is a structure found in almost all German castles and is similar to a keep in English castles; however, it was not used as a residence in time of peace, but only as a place of refuge in the event of a siege or invasions. The 25-meter high Bergfried at Breuberg, like the inner gateway, is from the Staufen period and was constructed around 1200. It, and the gateway to the main castle complex, are all that remain from the 13th century Romanesque building phase. It is possible to see Cyrillic inscriptions etched by Russian prisoners of war from the Second World War in the sandstone of the tower.
Other buildings in the main castle complex include the upper hall (first mentioned in 1357), the Gothic Erbach Manor Hall from 1568, and the bursary, which is connected to the manor hall by a medieval spiral staircase. The bursary is a timber-framed building from the 15th century. In the southwest corner, you will find the castle kitchen which boasts a huge chimney breast supported on sandstone columns. The mint is found on the west side of the castle complex.
An outer ward from the 14th and 15th centuries surrounds the main castle. You can get a better impression of the size and scale of the complex by walking down into the moat. As you walk around the castle, you will be able to observe the semi-circular Wilhelm Tower (1482), the Michael Tower (1504) on the eastern side of the complex, the Red Tower (1507) to the west, and the Front Tower (1505).
Breuberg Castle is true gem of castle construction from the late Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance periods, and its current state of preservation gives visitors a rare opportunity to explore the different architectural styles and changes to defensive and residential structures throughout the centuries. To best appreciate the castle, take the time to join a tour at the museum, have a snack at the restaurant and stroll along one of the many hiking paths surrounding the castle.
Address:
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Burgstraße, 64747 Breuberg
+49 (0) 6163 709 16
E-Mail: burgfuehrung@breuberg.de www.burg-breuberg.de |
Getting There:
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By train and bus:
Mon. - Fri. from the train station at Höchst i.Odw. take the bus to Mömlingen or Lützelbach. You can stop at either "Metzeler", where you can walk up to the castle in about 20 minutes, using Burgstraße, or stop at the historic marketplace in Breuberg-Neustadt. From there, take the Erlebnispfad hiking trail about one kilometer uphill.
On Saturdays and Sundays, you can book a call bus which stops directly at the entrance to the castle. Information and booking options at (06061) 9799-77 or on the internet at www.rmv.de.
By car: The navigation address: Burgstraße, 64747 Breuberg
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Opening Times:
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Much of the castle is open all year round; however, the museum and certain areas of the castle can only be viewed in conjunction with a guide at the following times:
In the Hessan Easter, summer and autumn holidays:
Daily: 13:30 and 14:45
Mid-March. - Mid / late October.:
Sat.: 13.30 and 14.45
Sundays and legal holidays: 13:30, 14:45 and 16:00
Contact the castle administration for more information about tours and the opening times of the restaurant.
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Entrance Fees:
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Entrance to the castle complex is free.
Museum tours last about 1 ¼ hours and cost:
Children 3.00 €
Adults 4.50 €
Families (2 adults and children) 10.00 €
(Ask for an English handout before beginning the tour)
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More Information:
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You can find out more about the Youth Hostel here
More information about the restaurant can be found on the castle website here.
The State Castles and Gardens Administration of Hessen has a detailed pamphlet available, which gives more information about the history and layout of the castle. You can order a copy here.
Source: Doetsch, Anja. Burg Breuberg Im Odenwald: Vom Stauferzeitlichen Adelssitz Zur Residenzburg Und Festung. Bad Homburg V.d. Hoehe: Edition Der Verwaltung Der Staatlichen Schloesser Und Gaerten Hessen, 2008. Print
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