The Ebersberg Felsenmeer - The Hinterer Odenwald's Little Sea of Stones

Ebersberg Felsenmeer

Ebersberg Felsenmeer

When most people hear the name “felsenmeer”, they automatically think of the giant boulders spilling down the side of the Felsberg in the western part of the Odenwald, not far from the Bergstrasse. If you've ever visited that felsenmeer, you know that, while it is awe-inspiring, it can be a bit crowded at times. Should you prefer somewhere more secluded, where you can spend a quite time communing with nature, you may wish to visit the Odenwald's smaller "sea of stones", known as the Ebersberg Felsenmeer, lying some 40 kilometers to the east of its larger cousin, near the town of Erbach-Bullau. 

Ebersberg Felsenmeer

Though both locations are host to a “sea” of large boulders and lie in the Odenwald, the similarities largely end at that point. Unlike the boulders at Felsberg, which are made of melaquarzdiorite, the stones at Ebersberg are made of bunter sandstone (Buntsandstein), a much softer, porous sedimentary rock. The structure of the stones allows moss and other vegetation to attach to the boulders, causing the stones to appear to be the more ancient of the two. This is, however, inaccurate. The stones at Felsberg are much older than those of Ebersberg, which were formed during the Tertiary period. 

Another difference between the two felsenmeers is that the Ebersberg stones are found in the Hinterer Odenwald (also called the Buntsandstein Odenwald), while the Felsberg lies in the Vorderer Odenwald (also called the Crystalline Odenwald).  The southeast border of these two regions is a bit hard to define but measures roughly 34 kilometers from Ober-Kinzig to Heiligkreuzsteinach. The difference in the two landscapes becomes more pronounced the further east you go, with the mixed forests of the Vorderer Odenwald giving way to largely coniferous forests of the Hinterer Odenwald. 

Ebersberg Felsenmeer

Geologic Processes in the Hinterer Odenwald

Ebersberg Felsenmeer

The Hinterer Odenwald, where the Ebersberg Felsenmeer lies, consists mainly of sand, silt and claystone, which were deposited about 250 million years ago in the Triassic period, in what was then

largely a river and lake landscape. At that time, the climate was quite dry and the large river systems which transported rock debris often fell dry due to drought. This resulted in the formation of a basin in which sand was deposited and, over the course of time, condensed and cemented into sandstone. 

In the many millions of years during and after the formation of the variegated sandstone, geological processes caused the area to rise and fall, sometimes above sea level and sometimes below. During this time, further layers of rock were added, though over time the most elevated rock layers were also increasingly eroded. In the Vorderer Odenwald all layers have disappeared down to the crystalline bedrock, the result of which are the huge boulders you see on the Felsberg. In the eastern Odenwald, at the Ebersberg Felsenmeer, the layers of the Buntsandstein have been preserved, giving the area a vastly different appearance to its easterly cousin. 

Getting there

Unlike the Felsberg Felsenmeer, there is no car park or visitors center at the Ebersberg site. It is a quite, rather secluded place which can only be accessed by hiking or biking on a nature trail. 

Ebersberg Felsenmeer

The nearest village is at Erbach-Bulau, which you can access from the B45. Once in the village, follow the sign "Felsenmeer".  This will lead you to a narrow road which you should follow until you get to the waterworks. From there, follow the nature path, B2, which will lead you directly to Felsenmeer in about 30 minutes. Alternatively, you can park at the nature car park, Gebhardshütte, and then take trail number one. The hike from there takes approximately 25 minutes. 

Sources

“Das Ebersberger Felsenmeerg.” Geocaching.com, 10 June 2015, www.geocaching.com/geocache/GC64NFP_das-ebersberger-felsenmeer?guid=d4ca2280-6a0f-4bbd-870f-74956f89a7e4.

The Mossau Valley - Where the Living is Good

Mossautal

The Mossautal (photo by Graham Watson)

The Mossau Valley, lying in the southern Odenwald district just west of the town of Erbach, epitomizes the rural idyll of green pastures, rolling farmland and wooded hills. The valley, which is recognized by the state as a resort area, has something for everyone: wellness hotels, farm holidays, hiking, historical sites, water sports, camping and fishing. The Mossautal is also known for its fresh, local produce, where guests can taste spring-brewed beer at the Schmucker brewery, visit the smallest dairy in Hessen and catch fresh fish straight from the ponds of Hüttenthal. I recently visited Mossautal while on Stage Three of the long-distance trail, the Nibelungensteig, and was struck with the beauty of the valley, both natural and man made. 

Siegfriedsbrunnen (Sigfried's Spring)

Siegfriedsbrunnen

Walking in a south-easterly direction from the town of Grasellenbach, I came upon Siegfriedsbrunnen (Siegfried's Spring). The spring, located about 1.5 km from the center of Grasellenbach, is the best known among the places claiming to have been the site of Siegfried’s murder, one of the most famous scenes in the Nibelung Saga.

The saga is an epic poem, written down in the 13th century, based on events in the Burgundian kingdom of the 5th and 6th centuries, some of which are known historical incidents. The various Nibelung-themed hotels, restaurants and cafes in Grasellenbach is evidence that the town has marketed the site extensively for tourism for a quite some time.

The water from the spring flows from a flat stone decorated with a coat of arms featuring a lily, and an inscription describes the place as Siegfriedsbrunnen. Next to the spring, a Gothic stone cross was erected, upon which is carved, in Middle High German, a portion of text from the saga. In 1951, the well dried up after the old deciduous forest in the vicinity was replaced by faster-growing softwood, which altered the flow of the groundwater. To maintain the illusion of a spring, water is piped in from the Grasellenbach municipal water supply.

Rotes Wasser Olfen (Red Water of Olfen)

The Red Water of Olfen (photo by Graham Watson)

After leaving the well, I continued up the mountain through the forest of the Spessartkopf, where I soon noticed a distinct change in the landscape. This area is a high moor known as the Red Water of Olfen, and it is one of the last real moors in the Odenwald and is a listed nature reserve. The Red Water is a bog, one that occurs when rainwater cannot seep through the ground. As a result, dead grasses, herbs, mosses and willows cannot be completely decomposed, and they gradually form layers of peat that slowly grow above the level of the groundwater. The name, "Red Water," derives from the brown alga, which binds the iron content of the water and settles as a rust-red surface

Olfenerbild (Olfen Picture)

The Olfenerbild

Monument still
containing a picture

After spending some time looking at the beauty of the moor, I returned to the trail to make my way to the village of Güttersbach. Just before reaching the K47, approximately one km north of the village of Olfen, I came upon a monument made of red sandstone called the Olfenerbild (Olfen Picture). The monument stands about three meters high and is one of the simplest and oldest of the Odenwald Bildstöcke (Picture Sticks).

Bildstöcke are stone shafts topped with a carved niche, which house (or housed) a religious picture. They were often placed on historic pilgrimage routes. In the case of the Olfenerbild it stands on the route to Schöllenbach and Walldürn, almost equidistant between the villages of Olfen and Güttersbach. The villagers of Olfen, who had no church of their own, used to stop at the Olfenerbild on the way to church services in Güttersbach. Though the Olfenerbild no longer houses a picture, other Bildstöcke further along the trail have retained theirs.

Güttersbach

After leaving the site of the Olfenerbild, it wasn't long before I arrived in the village of Güttersbach. Once you enter the town, one of the first things you will notice is the Protestant church. Archaeological evidence points to the possibility that Irish or Scottish monks could have founded the first church here, near the Kindelbrunnen Spring, which is today located in the cellar of the vicarage.

The Güttersbach Church

The Güttersbach church is the oldest church in the southern Odenwald, its tower foundation having been built in the 13th century, at the same time as a once-present moated castle. It was a stop-off for pilgrims on their way to Walldürn before the reformation in 1544. The nave of the church dates back to the early Gothic era, though it underwent changes in the late Gothic period. The rectangular choir is dated to 1480 and the pulpit to the early 18th-century. The church contains an organ from 1740 and a stained-glass window in the sacristy, which, in the 19th century, was made up of parts of much older stained-glass windows and was donated to the church by the Counts of Erbach. The vicarage was built in 1596 and is the oldest existing vicarage in the Odenwald.

The Lindenplatz next to the church was once used for judicial proceedings, the stone seat under the Linden tree being a relic from this time. The tradition of holding a judicial court under a linden tree is an ancient German tradition, and the tree under which the court is held is called a Zentlinden. The word “zent” comes from the Latin word for centre, meaning one hundred, as one hundred families were represented by the court. Meetings were normally held once a year, mostly in the autumn under the shade of the linden tree, though special sessions could be called if needed. Courts of this type dealt with issues such as theft, fraud, adultery, witchcraft, brawls and even murder.

Güttersbach itself is recognized by the state as a health and relaxation resort and has a good number of guest facilities for a village of its size. The first mention of the village was as "Gunderspach" in 1290, at which time the presence of the church was first documented, and the fact that a mill existed in the village was first mentioned in 1424. The village was owned by the counts of Erbach, before becoming Hessen in 1806. Leaving Güttersbach, I followed the trail up the hill to the south of the village, over pastureland and through the forest and towards the village of Hüttenthal. 

Across the Meadow to Güttersbach (photo by Graham Watson)

Hüttenthal

Hüttenthal, which belonged to the counts of Erbach, was first mentioned in 1366 in regards to a dowry for the wife of Konrad of Erbach. The village remained an Erbach possession until 1806 when it became part of Hessen. Before the Thirty Years War left the town devastated and abandoned, there were four iron works in Hüttenthal, the oldest having been first documented in 1366. It was from this industry that the village got the name “Hüttenthal" as Hütte, in addition to meaning "hut", also means "iron works". It was only after Swiss immigrants arrived in the valley in the late 17th century that iron smelting, using water-powered hammers and bellows was again present in Hüttenthal.

The Dairy

Today, Hüttenthal is most famous for the small, private dairy located in the village, the Molkerei Hüttenthal. The origins of the dairy lie in the cooperative efforts of local farmers in the early 1900s. Later, Wilhelm Kohlhage took over the endeavor and turned it into a family business which has been running for three generations. Today, it is the smallest dairy in southern Hessen and the only dairy left in the Odenwald to produce the geographically-protected cheese known as Odenwälder Frühstückskäse, a soft cheese produced from pasteurized cow's milk. This cheese is often used to make a regional specialty called Handkäse Mit Musik (hand cheese with music), thus named because the cheese is formed by hand.

Marbachstausee (Marbach Reservoir)

The Marbachstausee (photo by Graham Watson)

The trail lead me past the Hüttenthal dairy and then through a scenic, coniferous forest.  I soon saw the waters of the Marbachstausee (Marbach Reservoir) peeking though the trees and underbrush before coming down the hill to walk along its southern shore. The reservoir was built from 1978 - 1982 for flood protection; however, it has become a popular place of relaxation for locals and visitors alike. Activities include: swimming, boating, windsurfing, sailing, fishing and hiking. The west end of the reservoir is a nature reserve for birds, and you can often seen some interesting waterfowl here. A camp site is also located in a designated area nearby.

The Mossautal (photo by Graham Watson)

Location
Two B roads run through Mossautal, the B47 (Nibelungenstraße) in the north and the B460 (Siegfriedstraße) in the south. The valley is bordered in the north by the community of Reichelsheim, in the east by Erbach, in the south by the town of Beerfelden, and in the west by the communities of Wald-Michelbach, Grasellenbach and Fürth. Villages which lie in the Mossautal are: Güttersbach, Hiltersklingen, Hüttenthal, Ober-Mossau and Unter-Mossau.

Schlierbach - A Bit of Switzerland in the Odenwald?

Schlierbach in the Odenwald

Most people who live in the Odenwald are quite familiar with the town of Lindenfels, with its affinity for dragons, beautiful scenery and iconic castle sitting high above the surrounding countryside. Far fewer, however, have visited the little community of Schlierbach, lying in the valley just below, though it is, quite possibly, the prettiest little village in the Odenwald. Schlierbach, having less than 600 inhabitants, is not a large place, but its historic inns, restaurants, cafes and beer gardens, scattered between the half-timbered houses which line Schlier Creek, make it a charming and scenic addition to the Odenwald community.

History

Schlierbach lies in the center of the valley of the same name and is probably the place called "Richgiesbura" in 795 in the Lorsch Codex. If so, that would be the earliest known mention of the village. The castle on the hill above, at Lindenfels, was called Schlierburg and Slirburc during the 11th century, and that is probably where the town gets its name, though there isn't documented evidence of the town being called Sirbach until 1356, at which time it was already a part of the Palatinate, a situation that would remain until 1803.

Immigration After the Thirty Years War

After the end of the Thirty Years' War (1648) and the plague that followed, Schlierbach, like many towns in the Palatinate, was almost deserted. To encourage immigration to the area, the Electoral Palatinate pursued a resettlement policy based on religious tolerance; however, wars in the troubled period afterward, such as the Palatinate Succession War (1688-1697) and the War of the Spanish Succession (1701-1714), rendered many of the efforts useless as tens of thousands of Palatinate citizens emigrated to North America and Prussia.

Wars did not, however, entirely prevent immigration. and many people from Switzerland found

Schlierbach Reformed Church

their way to the Palatinate. Some of these were Reformed Calvinist Christians who accepted the invitation of the Count Palatine and settled in the Odenwald valleys. Two brothers having the last name "Bitsch" were the first to arrive in the area, where they found many fallow farms. Matthias Bitsch, who came from the area around Chur in Switzerland, settled in Breitenwiesen in 1662, and his brother, Christian, settled in Raidelbach, villages near Schlierbach. Together, the two families had more than 20 children, though a few died in early childhood. Twelve boys, however, reached marriageable age and founded their own families. You can still find families with the last name "Bitsch" in the Odenwald today.

The Schlierbach Cemetery

It is probably from Swiss immigrants such as the Bitsch brothers, that Schlierbach came to have one of its most notable landmarks, the Evangelical cemetery. The village's cemetery is unique in the Odenwald because its markers are painted wooden boards, rather than carved stone. The religious roots of these markers can be found in the strict ideas of John Calvin (1509-1564), who, like his compatriot Ulrich Zwingli (1484-1531), insisted on a radical renewal (reformation) of the church. They gave up the traditional process of the mass and celebrated their worship with prayer, Bible reading, preaching and psalm singing. Calvinists did not believe in religious decoration or the cross as a sign of faith; therefore, graves were decorated with white boards, containing only the words "Here rests in peace", the name of the deceased with his or her year of birth and death and a simple painted decoration.

Schlierbach Reformed Cemetery

Today only one person, Friedrich Hartmann, still  produces the "Schlierbacher Totenbrett". In addition  to the standard information, Mr. Hartmann also paints a flower pot containing three flowers to symbolize the trinity on each grave marker. Roots that emanate from the flowers stand for eternal life. The oldest markers in the cemetery of Schlierbach date from the 1930s, as they are made of softwood which deteriorates fairly rapidly. The cemetery has been a listed  monument since the 1950s.

Modern History

Zum Römischen Kaiser - Operated as an Inn in the
18th Century

The population in Schlierbach recovered slowly after the Thirty Years War. In 1784, 39 families with 154 people lived in the town's 20 houses. The district consisted of 251 acres of acres, 70 acres of meadows, 5 acres of gardens, 26 acres of pasture and 10 acres of forest. Furthermore, there was a military customs post in the village at that time.

The late 18th and early 19th centuries brought far-reaching changes to the Palatinate. As a result of the Napoleonic wars, the section of the Rhine Palatinate lying on the left bank of the Rhine was annexed by France, and the Electoral Palatinate itself was dissolved. Hessen-Darmstadt also lost land on the left bank of the river.  As compensation for its losses, Hessen-Darmstadt received Lindenfels and the surrounding territory, thus making Schlierbach "Hessen".

In 1842, it was reported that Schlierbach had 34 houses with 252 inhabitant, all of whom belonged to the reformed church except 13 Lutherens and one Catholic. Among the citizens, were seven farmers, 23 tradesmen and 5 day laborers. There was one church and one grinding mill. 

The Mill in Schlierbach

Schlierbach, like the rest of Germany was affected by both world wars, having lost citizens in the fighting. Just in front of the town cemetery, a memorial has been erected to the fallen. Additionally, population figures for the town show that after World War II, refugees from the former German areas in the east settled in the village. 

Schlierbach Today

Today, Schlierbach remains a fairly relaxed little village, its old town having been supplemented with newer development in the surrounding areas, especially in the direction of Lindenfels. In 1981, Schlierbach won a competition as the most beautiful village. In 2008, the newly-developed Nibelungensteig trail helped increase tourism, as did a nearby holiday, caravan park. In 2009, the village's playground; with its water features and dragon's head tunnel, won a competition hosted by the "Bergsträsser Anzeiger" as best Bergstrasse playground. 

If you visit Schlierbach, you'll find the following facilities:

• Zur Krone (Restaurant and Beer Garden)
• Landhaus Tannenhof (Inn)
• Zum Römischen Kaiser (Inn and Restaurant)
• Hofkaffee Meister (Restaurant and Cafe)
• Terassencamping Schlierbach (Camp Ground)
• The award-winning community playground 

Sources

“Calvinistic Character of the Early German Reformed Church.” RCUS, www.rcus.org/calvinistic-character/.

“Schlierbach Im Odenwald - Home.” Schlierbach Im Odenwald - Home, www.schlierbach-odw.de/.

“Schlierbach (Lindenfels).” Wikipedia, Wikimedia Foundation, 14 May 2018, de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schlierbach_(Lindenfels).

Zwingenberg - Oldest Town on the Hessen Bergstrasse

Zwingenberg

If you've ever spent time at a festival in Zwingenberg, visited its scenic city center or just driven through the town, it will probably come as no surprise to you that this little village on the Bergstrasse has a history that dates back many years. In fact, it is considered the oldest community on the "Mountain Road", having been granted town rights in 1274.

Like other villages lining the Bergstrasse, Zwingenberg lies between the flat plains of the Hessian Ried to the west and the mid-range mountains of the Vorderer Odenwald to the east. The town's position, sandwiched between the tallest elevation on the Bergstrasse, the Melibokus range, and the swampy marshes and lowland forests of the Ried, gave it its name, Zwingenberg. The infinitive zwingen means "to force", denoting the fact that travelers were forced to pass through the town in order to avoid the mountains to the east and the lowlands to the west.

History of Zwingenberg

The first documentary mention of the town was in 1015 when the Holy Roman Emperor, Heinrich II, donated his hunting rights there to Lorsch Abbey, in which the area was referred to as locum getwinc. After this, no mention can be found of Zwingenberg until 1135 when the marriage of Hildegard von Hennenberg brought the town, along with other territory along the Bergstrasse, into the possession of Count Heinrich II von Katzenelnbogen. 

The Katzenelnbogens were a noble family whose origins were in the Rhine Gorge at Rheinfels Castle at St. Goar. From there, the Katzenelnbogens enlarged their territory to include areas south of the Main River, along the Bergstrasse and in the northern Odenwald.

In order to secure the Katzenelnbogen territory along the Bergstrasse, in the 13th century, Diether IV

built Auerbach Castle in the hills above the town and a lower castle at Zwingenberg. These two castles not only provided a means of defense against invasion but also secured the family's position as toll collectors along their section of the important north-south trade route, which included the Bergstrasse.

In 1258, Diether V petitioned to have a church built in Zwingenberg to relieve the town's occupants from the need "to reach their mother church in Bensheim to hear God’s word and receive the Sacraments...".  The archbishop of Mainz approved Diether's petition, and a church was then built in Zwingenberg. Two years later, the Katzenelnbogen territory on the Bergstrasse was divided between Diether V and his brother, Eberhard I, with Diether remaining in possession of Zwingenberg. It was also under Diether that Zwingenberg was granted town and market rights in 1274.

The reign of Diether V's son, Count Wilhelm I, was not so beneficial for Zwingenberg. In 1301, he aligned himself with a faction of Rhenish electors, including the Archbishop of Mainz, who sought to overthrow King Albrecht I. This resulted in a declaration of war by the king, in which Zwingenberg and its lower castle were set on fire and destroyed. It is worth noting that nearby Auerbach did not suffer the same fate, as it belonged to the Eberhard Katzenelnbogen line, and that side of the family had remained loyal to the king.

In February of 1403, Count Johann IV pledged Zwingenberg and its castle, along with Pfungstadt, Eschollbrücken and Nieder-Ramstadt to Count Henna Weisskreis von Lindenfels as collateral against 6,000 gulden. According to the agreement between the two nobles, "burghers, citizens, tower keepers, guards and gatekeepers in Zwingenberg and the men in Eschollbrücken, Pfungstadt and Nieder-Ramstadt must pay homage to Henne and praise obedience to him as long as he holds these places." Fortunately, Count Johann was able to later redeem his property.

The Katzenelnbogen Coat of Arms

In 1479, Count Johann IV's son, Count Philipp I, died without a male heir. As a result of the marriage of Philipp's daughter, Anna, the Katzenelnbogen territories, including Zwingenberg, then passed to the Landgraviate of Hessen. The town later passed to the Landgraviate of Hessen-Darmstadt in 1567, which in 1806 was raised to the Grand Duchy of Hessen.

As with so many communities. Zwingenberg was devastated during the 30 Years War and by a plague which occurred shortly thereafter. Communities along major thoroughfares, including the Bergstrasse, were hit particularly hard by both disease and war, and it was estimated that southern Hessen lost about 80 percent of its population during this time. Zwingenberg itself was, for the most part, abandoned. To add to the town's misery, most of its houses were then burned by the French during the Nine Years War in 1693. Only 11 houses and the church withstood the fire. The town did not really begin to recover for another century. 

During the 20th century, Zwingenberg was also witness to wars and political events affecting the wider area. Just like other communities along the Bergstrasse, Zwingenberg was involved in the action taking place during World War II, and the sight of soldiers in the streets, bombers flying overhead and tanks rolling along the motorway were common occurrences. It wasn't until the Americans occupied the area in March of 1945 did war for the citizens of Zwingenberg come to an end. There were those among the population who were happy to see the last of the fighting, as evidenced by the fact that some residents of the town removed tank barriers before hoisting white flags of surrender.

The history of the Jewish community in Zwingenberg

Synagogue in Zwingenberg

The origin of the Jewish community in Zwingenberg dates at least back to the 18th century when
Jewish families were counted in the population, though there may have been Jews living in the town as far back as the 15th century. A document from 1401 states that three "Jews are named to Twinginburg". In 1647, five Jews named Gumpel, David, Joseph, Baruch and Eysig are mentioned. In 1648, Abraham Mooysen is mentioned in a document. In 1700, the city council protested against the admission of "Hertz, the Jew's son". 

In the early part of the 19th century, the Jewish population of Zwingenberg joined with those in Alsbach, Bickenbach, Hähnlein and Jugenheim to form a common community; however, by November 1858, the Jews of Zwingenberg were populous enough to form an independent community. In 1861, the town's Jewish community had built a synagogue in the old town hall square, and by 1880, there were 77 Jewish inhabitants in Zwingenberg, mostly living in modest economic conditions. The community also had a religious school and a ritual bath; however, their dead were buried in the Jewish cemetery in Alsbach. On Yom Kippur in 1902, a fire destroyed the original synagogue; therefore, a new one was built at Wiesenstraße 5, which opened in 1903. 

In 1933, 40 people still belonged to the Jewish community in Zwingenberg; however, between 1933 and 1939, they all moved away due to an increasing deprivation of rights and repressions. Some moved nearby to cities such as Darmstadt, Frankfurt and Mannheim where they felt safer from attacks by the SA and SS; however, others emigrated. Seven went to Palestine, while others moved to the United States and Mexico. Some of those who moved away were later deported and murdered. Of the Jews either born or having been long-time resident in Zwingenberg, 20 were listed as having been killed by the Nazis. 

Though the Zwingenberg Jewish community did not survive the pogroms of the Nazi era, the synagogue was not destroyed. During the November Pogrom in 1938 (previously referred to as Kristallnacht), the neighboring inhabitants feared for their own houses and urged the SA raiders not to set the building on fire. Nevertheless, the windows of the synagogue were broken, and engravings and the stars of David were all largely destroyed. It was later decided that the synagogue should be blown up, however, this was avoided when the building was sold by the last Jew remaining in Zwingenberg, Moritz Schack, for 6,000 RM. 

Things to See in Zwingenberg

Bergkirche
By Tilman2007
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0) 

The Old Town, with its charming timber-frame houses, little cafes and restaurants, makes an attractive place to spend a few hours.

The Protestant Bergkirche (Mountain Church), located on Auf dem Berg street, is one of the oldest preserved buildings in the city. It was built in 1258 as a small chapel and was expanded and altered
throughout the following centuries. In 1830 the church was completely renovated, at which time it received its current appearance.

The remains of the Wasserburg (moated castle) belong to one of the oldest buildings in the town and were once part of Zwingenberg's fortifications. The castle was located at the southwestern end of the city wall and probably had a defensive function and administrative function (toll collection) on the Bergstrasse trade route. It was also the residence of the Katzenelnbogen family. The castle was destroyed by King Albrecht's forces in his war against the Rhenish electors.

The Aul

The Aul, located on Auf dem Berg street, is the only remaining tower of the old city walls. This two-story tower lies in the northeast corner of the old town and is made of undressed quarry stones.

The old Amtsgericht (“Amt court”), at Obertor 1, was built between 1561 and 1563 and restored in 1989. It originally served the Hessian Landgraves as a hunting palace.

The Schlößchen (“Little Palace”), located at Untergasse 16, was built about 1520 and has served as the Town Hall since 1969. 

The former guesthouse, Bunten Löwen, at Löwenplatz 6, was the first building built outside the city walls, having been constructed in 1595.

Across the street from the Bunten Löwen, you will find the Scheuergasse (lane), which was formed by two rows of side-gabled barns. These were built outside the old town wall because of the danger from fire. Today they are used mainly as houses, offices and guesthouses, though you will also find the town museum here. 

The Scheuergasse

Sources
Die Synagoge in Zwingenberg (Kreis Bergstrae), www.alemannia-judaica.de/zwingenberg_hp_synagoge.htm.

Dreißigjähriger Krieg, www.darmstadt-stadtlexikon.de/d/dreissigjaehriger-krieg.html.

“Geschichtliches Über Zwingenberg.” Zwingenberg - Modernes Leben in Historischen Mauern: Stadtgeschichte, www.zwingenberg.de/de/kultur-tourismus/stadtgeschichte.php

“Graf Johann v. Katzenelnbogen Verkauft an Henne Weißkreis Von Lindenfels Burg Und Stadt Zwingenberg Mit Den Dörfern Eschollbrücken, Das Gräflichen... - Deutsche Digitale Bibliothek.” Hessisches Staatsarchiv Darmstadt, www.deutsche-digitale-bibliothek.de/item/RHUMTIOCV4V55M4VIQRIM5XSXKEBEKFO.

Rheinland-Pfalz, Landesarchivverwaltung. “13.08.1301.” Landesarchivverwaltung, www.landeshauptarchiv.de/service/landesgeschichte-im-archiv/blick-in-die-geschichte/archiv-nach-jahrgang/13081301/.

“Zwingenberg, Hesse.” Wikipedia, Wikimedia Foundation, 9 May 2018, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zwingenberg,_Hesse

Gastronomy in the Odenwald: Handkäse Mit Musik

Handkäse Mit Musik (hand cheese with music) is a local specialty and, in the Odenwald, it is traditionally made from Odenwälder Frühstückskäse, a soft cheese produced from pasteurized cow's milk. 

The designation "Odenwälder Frühstückskäse" is a protected geographical indication, and it is also registered as a protected designation of origin (PDO) under European law. Though Odenwälder Frühstückskäse was once produced by several Odenwald dairies, it is now made only by the Hüttenthal Dairy in Mossautal. This cheese may only be used for products made in the Odenwald or Bergstraße districts, and the processed milk must also come only from this area.  Odenwälder Frühstückskäse is a soft cheese, and though many are made into small, cylindrical loaves, Handkäse Mit Musik is normally made from the round cheeses.  It has an ivory to yellowish inside, surrounded by a brownish-yellow skin.  The cheese has a pungent, spicy smell and a strong taste.

You will often see Handkäse Mit Musik on regional menus, though not all will be made with Odenwälder Frühstückskäse. Some are also made with Hessen Handkäse (another geographically-protected cheese), as the dish is not just eaten in the Odenwald but other parts of Hessen, as well. 

Handkäse Mit Musik is often served as a starter or snack, topped with chopped onion and accompanied by apple wine. The cheese can be topped with caraway seeds, though it is more usual to have this served on the side, allowing one to decide how much of the spice they want, if any at all. 

Recipe: Handkäse Mit Musik

Serves four.  I used the  Odenwälder Frühstückskäse from the Hüttenthal Dairy in Mossautal, but you can use Hessen Handkäse. 

4 ripe Handkäse (One for each person) 

2 Tablespoons wine vinegar

1 Tablespoon of water

1 Tablespoon of Oil

finely chopped onions to taste

Cumin seeds to taste (serve on side)

ground black pepper to taste 

Place one cheese on a plate for each person. For the music, mix together all the ingredients except the pepper and cumin and pour over the cheese. Add the pepper and serve, allowing each guest to add cumin if desired.   

You can learn more about the Hüttenthal Dairy here:

https://www.molkerei-huettenthal.de/