Amorbach

History

The Abbey Church at Amorbach

The scenic town of Amorbach, with a population of around 4,000 people, lies in the Bavarian Odenwald not far from the Main River.

The town began life as a Benedictine monastery during the Carolingian Period of Frankish rule in 734, and from that point, eventually grew into a settlement that was elevated to the status of a city in 1253. Today it is a popular tourist hot spot with, not only a charming old town, but also beautiful remnants of its important ecclesiastical past. 

The Carolingian rulers who founded monasteries at that time did so, not only for religious purposes, but also as a way to control areas under their jurisdiction, often scarcely-populated areas of dense forest, and the area around Amorbach was no exception. In addition to Amorbach, the Carolingians also established three other monasteries in the region: Lorsch, Fulda and Mosbach. 

 St. Pirmin
By Alex - https://commons.wikimedia.org/
w/index.php?curid=309997

There is a bit of uncertainty surrounding the exact origins of the abbey at Amorbach, however, legends say it was first founded at the entrance of the Otterbachtal by Saint Pirmin, an influential abbot who had gained favour with the Carolingian ruler, Charles "the Hammer" Martel. This is highly likely as St. Pirmin was the founder or reformer of several other abbeys in Frankish territory, such as those at Gengenbach, Murbach, Wissembourg, Marmoutier and Neuweiler. Additionally, Saint Pirmin, though he originated from the area around Narbonne, focused much of his missionary work in the Alsace, the upper area of the Rhine and near the Danube. 

The legend continues with the assertion that it was a disciple of Pirmin, an Aquitanian called "Amor", who moved the monastery to its current location in 734. Though who set up the abbey is uncertain, we do know that by 800 it had become an imperial abbey under the direct jurisdiction of the emperor, who at that time was Charlemagne. 

In the 10th century, Amorbach Abbey was severely damaged by invading Magyar troops from Hungary, who took part in what was a consistent wave of invasions across much of Europe during that time. Despite the attack by the Magyars, the abbey continued to prosper, and with the acquisition of relics in the 15th century, began to attract pilgrims. The abbey also did not escape the antics of the infamous Götz von Berlichingen who, during the German Peasants War of 1525, plundered the abbey and destroyed some of its buildings.

A little over a century later in 1632, the abbey was again attacked, this time by Swedes in the Thirty Years War. The monastery was even dissolved for a short time during the war, between 1632 and 1634, when a local landowner took over abbey lands. Like much of the area, Amorbach suffered through a time of poverty and deprivation after the Thirty Years War, and in 1656, Amorbach was transferred into the control of the Archbishopric of Mainz, which oversaw significant building works.

A View of Amorbach's Old Town

The 18th century saw many structural changes to the abbey buildings. In 1740, the entire site was
renovated to include late Baroque and early Rococo features. It was also during that decade that the abbey church was built and later, in the 1780s, further construction and renovations were introduced, including the installation of an organ, which at the time, was the largest in the world. 

The latter part of the 18th century and the early 19th century brought an end to religious life at the abbey as a result of the Napoleonic wars. The abbey was dissolved, and it, along with its territorial possessions, were given to the Princes of Leiningen as compensation for territory lost as a result of French actions in 1793, which stripped the family of their territory on the left bank of the Rhine. The abbey church was given to the Protestant parish and the other monastic buildings were converted to a royal residence. Jurisdiction over the abbey and its territories passed to the government of the Kingdom of Bavaria in 1816.

Royal Connections

Princess Victoria of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld
By Richard Rothwell - The Royal Collection, Public Domain,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=18262477

The title “Prince of Leiningen” is a relatively new title, having been created in 1779 by Holy Roman Emperor Joseph II; however, the Leiningens are a very old German noble family who can trace their roots back to the first Count of Leiningen who lived in the 12th century.

Under the new title, the first Prince of Leiningen was Carl Friedrich Wilhelm, whose son, Emich Carl, 2nd Prince of Leiningen, married Princess Victoria of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld.

Fans of British history may recognise this name because Princess Victoria, after the death of Emich Carl, married King George III's fourth son, Prince Edward, Duke of Kent and Strathearn.

Edward's niece, Princess Charlotte of Wales, was the only legitimate grandchild of George III, however, she died 1817, an event which caused a succession crisis for the United Kingdom. This crisis brought pressure on the Duke of Kent and his unmarried brothers to marry and have children. Prince Edward chose Princess Victoria of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld, whose brother, Leopold, was Princess Charlotte's widower.

After the couple's marriage, the prince  moved to Amorbach to be with his wife, who was serving as regent of the principality of Leiningen on behalf of her young son, Carl.  It was while the couple were in Amorbach that Princess Victoria found herself pregnant with the child who would one day become Britain's Queen Victoria, a monarch who would rule over almost a quarter of the Earth’s population. The couple left Amorbach in 1819 to travel to England so that their child would be born in the land she would one day rule.

Things to See

St. Gangolf Church 

St. Gangolf Church

St. Gangolf Church is the Catholic parish church of Amorbach and was built between 1751 and 1753 on the site of a church dedicated to St. Gangolf and St. Sebastian. The first documented evidence of the earlier church was in 1182. The exterior of the present church is Baroque, while the interior reflects the Rococo style, with elements of the beginning of the Neoclassical  movement. The ceiling frescoes, which show the lives of St. Gangolf and St. Sebastian, are by Johannes Zick, an important master of the late Baroque. 

Abbey Church and Residence Buildings

Abbey Church of Amorbach

Though the monastery dates back more than 1,000 years, the present day abbey church only dates to the mid-18th century. It was built between 1742 and 1747 by the court master builder, Maximilian von Welsch from Kurmainz, and is considered to be one of the most important and beautiful examples of German late Baroque/early Rococo to be found in a religious building. Von Welsh incorporated two 12th century towers into his new church, though he had them clad in Buntsandstone.

Interior of the Abbey Church

The interior of the church features late Baroque/early Rococo stucco work and frescoes by members of the Wessobrunner School, a group of late 17th century stucco-workers who developed in the Wessobrunn Abbey in Bavaria. The side aisles contain altars dedicated to Saint Joseph, Magdalena, Agnes and the Bishops of Verden, among others. The high altar, with its six marble columns, displays a picture of the arrival of Mary in heaven. The impressive wrought-iron choir screen was made between 1748 and 1750 by Marx Gattinger from Würzburg, and the gold-covered pulpit was constructed in 1749 by Johann Wolfgang van der Auvera.

The Organ

Perhaps the most famous feature in the abbey church is its Stumm organ, which was built between 1776 and 1782, by the brothers, Johann Philipp and Johann Heinrich Stumm. The organ is the largest instrument ever built by by the Stumm workshop, which is quite impressive considering the Stumm family built organs for over 200 years.

The Residence

The most notable rooms in the residence, where the Leiningen family still live, are the neoclassical Green Room and the library. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the Green Room was used for large dinners and as a concert venue. The room features unique stucco work by Andreas Dittmann, an attractive musicians' gallery, two 18th century crystal chandeliers and cast-iron ovens, with heraldry emblems of the former abbey.

Amorbach Residence

The original library was heavily damaged during both the German Peasant War in 1525 and again during the Swedish occupation of the Thirty Years War between 1632 and 1634. The room you see today was built in the late 18th century by architect Ignaz Neumann in the “Amorbacher Braid Style”, a popular decorative motif during the transition from Rococo to Neoclassical. The abbey library, with its painted ceilings by Konrad Huber, was considered to be one of the most beautiful of its time, and since 1856, has been home to approximately 35,000 books.  

Tithe Barn (Zehntscheuer)

Amorbach Zehntscheuer

This building, built in 1488, was originally used to store produce that was paid as tithes to the prince.  It was remodelled in the 1960s to serve as a cinema; however, The Amorbach Tithe Barn Cultural Circle (Kulturkreis Zehntscheuer Amorbach e.V.) turned the building into a cabaret theater in 1991 and then bought the barn in 2001. 

The Berger Collection and Teapot Museum (Sammlung Berger mit Teekannenmuseum)

The collection houses works by a number of modern artists including Chagall, Yves Klein and Roy Lichtenstein. The teapot museum displays around 2,500 examples of teapots from all over the world.

Wildenberg Castle and the Watterbacher House Museum

If you're looking for an historical outing that is a bit off the beaten path, a visit to Wildenberg Castle and the nearby Watterbacher House Forestry Museum may be just the place for an interesting day trip.

Wildenberg Castle (also called Wildenburg Castle) lies in the Odenwald in the Lower Franconian district of Miltenberg in Bavaria near the town of Amorbach.  This remarkable ruin, dating from the time of the Hohenstaufen dynastic period between 1079 and 1278, is considered one of the most important castle ruins in all of Germany. 

A visit to Wildenberg can easily be combined with a tour of the Watterbacher House Forestry Museum (see below) located less than a kilometer away in the little village Pruenschen. 

History

Wildenberg Castle was built sometime between 1180 and 1200 by the Lords of Dürn who were members of the retinue of the Hohenstaufen emperor and protective stewards of Amorbach Abbey. The von Dürn family took their name from their seat in Walldürn, and in the 13th century, they

Wildenberg Castle

had large possessions in southwest Germany. 

We first hear of the von Dürn family in relation to Ruprecht von Dürn, who was given the bailiwick of Amorbach Abbey and extensive lands in the surrounding area. Ruprecht was one of Emperor Frederick Barbarossa’s and Henry IV’s closest advisers and was a witness on many of their official documents. 

At the height of their influence, the von Dürn’s territory included almost the entire area known as the Bauland between the Neckar, Jagst and Main rivers and, south of the Jagst, included a strip of land running between Heilbronn and Forchtenberg. In total, they controlled an area of about 2,100 square kilometers. 

The decline of the Lords of Dürn took place as early as the middle of the 13th century. It is likely that Konrad I allied himself against Frederick Barbarossa during the emperor’s dispute with his deposed son, Henry. Prior to the family’s decline, however, around 1200, Ruprecht or perhaps his father or brother, Burchert, began the construction of Wildenberg Castle. Construction was completed by Ruprecht’s grandson, Konrad I.  

View of the Gate House

In 1251, Konrad I divided his territory between his three sons, with his son, Ulrich III, being given the property around Wildenberg; however, Ulrich was forced to sell Wildenberg to the archbishopric of Mainz in 1271 as he was under financial distress. The castle was later sold to the Amt of Mainz, and in 1350, it was enfeoffed to Eberhard of Rosenberg. In 1354 Conrad Rüdt of Collenberg redeemed the fief only to see the castle seriously damaged by an earthquake two years later. Shortly after, Archbishop Gerlach enfeoffed the castle, as well as the town of Amorbach and a free tenancy in Miltenberg to Engelhard of Hirschhorn. 

From 1368, Wiprecht of Dürn, Eberhardt Rüdt of Bödigheim, Fritz of Dürn and Eberhard of Fechenbach were castellans for the castle, with their descendants managing Wildenberg up to the 15th century. In the German Peasants' War, peasants from Heller Haufen, led by the infamous Götz of Berlichingen razed Wildenberg Castle on May 4, 1525. Since then, it has been a ruin. 

Castle Layout

Partition Wall in Courtyard

When you first see Wildenberg Castle, what you notice immediately, even in its ruined state, is the castle’s size. It covers an area of over 5,400 sq. meters, three times the size of an average German castle. The inner ward is 80 meters long. and has survived largely in its original state since the  Hohenstaufen period. 

The oldest parts of the castle complex are the inner and outer bailey. The relatively small outer bailey lay between the rising ridge and the inner bailey and was separated from both by a trench. Today nothing remains of the outer bailey except a few bridge piers which provide evidence of how the castle inhabitants moved between the two areas. On the ridge above the outer bailey, you can see the remains of a hunting lodge that was never actually completed. 

Upper Windows of the Gate House

In contrast to the structures of the outer bailey, those in the inner bailey are in good condition. Today, visitors access the inner bailey by way of the still-impressive gate tower, the upper floor of which housed the castle’s chapel, The St. George Chapel. To the left of the gate you can see two windows, belonging to a guardhouse, which was built with an adjoining residential building in 1485. This was accessed from the middle courtyard. 

The Bergfried

In its heyday, the inner bailey was divided into three areas. The center courtyard, most importantly, contained the well with its housing structure. Built into the southwestern curtain wall there were numerous residential and farm building whose windows can still be seen on the wall. In the south, there were additional buildings as well as the diagonally-oriented Bergfried and shield wall.

Palac Windows

In the north, lies the ornate residential palace with an adjacent defensive tower. The interior of the palace is partially preserved with, among other things, some pillars, a large chimney, beam supports, beam holes and numerous window openings. The numerous ornamental elements on the upper floor windows and the richly decorated vaulting points indicate the prestige of this impressive building

Artist's Reconstruction

In the years 1400 to 1511, the castle was extended in a late medieval style. The west tower and a partition wall in the middle of the courtyard were built and the castle chapel renovated. Apart from these changes, however, there have been hardly any structural alterations to the castle in the post-Hohenstaufen period.  The fact that the castle retains so many original features is why Wildenberg, despite its ruinous state, is regarded as one of the best preserved Hohenstaufen castles in Southern Germany.

Parzival and Wildenberg Castle

Wildenberg is rumored to be the castle mentioned in Wolfram von Eschenbach’s Parzival, a verse novel of court literature written in Middle High German sometime between 1200 and 1210. Von Eschenbach,  in the fifth book (Die Gralsburg), mentions the Wildenberg specifically: "Who saw such a great fire/Here by us in Wildenberg?" It is possible, therefore, that Wolfram von Eschenbach wrote part of the novel here; however, other castles have also been suggested as the subject of the novel, or the author may have simply based his description on contemporary court literature.

Watterbacher House Forestry Museum

The Watterbacher House, so named for its original location in Watterbach-Kirchzell, is considered to be the oldest preserved farmhouse in the Odenwald. Its owners in Watterbach wanted to demolish the house in order to build a new building in its place, so the building had to be moved to a different location. The old farmhouse was first moved to Breitenbach in 1966 and then to its present location in Preunschen in 1981. Tests on wood samples from the house point to its construction being sometime around 1475. The medieval half-timbered house was what is called a residential stable, with an enclosure for animals and the living quarters for the family under one roof. This was a common practice in the Odenwald during that time. The Watterbacher House opened as a museum on August 1, 1997, exploring forest history development throughout the ages. 

Visiting Wildenberg Castle and the Watterbacherhaus

From October to March the Watterbachaus is open on Saturdays and Sundays from noon to 16:00. From April to September, it is open on Saturdays and Sundays from 11:00 to 17:00  and outside opening hours on request. It is located at Dorfstrasse 4, 63938, Kirchzell-Pruenschen.

The castle is open year around, and, except during cultural events, is free to the public. It is located about a 20 minute walk from the museum where you will see directional signs. You will need to wear comfortable shoes for the walk. 

Between Amorbach and Miltenberg

View from Gotthardsberg

Recently, my hike on the Nibelungensteig took me to the Main River valley, past the town of Amorbach and then over the hills towards Miltenberg. While both of these historic towns are important stops on the trail, the walk between the two is also very interesting and has plenty to offer to those who are fond of history, including both medieval and Celtic ruins.

Gotthard’s Ruin

Upon leaving the railway station in Amorbach, the trail immediately took me up the hill known as Gotthardsberg, home of Gotthard's Ruin. Due to its exposed location on the Roman frontier, the hill was in use as a signal station at least as far back as Roman times, and would have remained in use for that purpose until the area was overrun by Germanic tribes such as the Alemanni, Burgundians and Teutons in the 5th century. 

At some point, near the time of the founding of the Amorbach Monastery in 714, the Frankish regional count, Ruthard, built a refuge castle of approximately 80 x 50 meters on the Gotthardsberg. In 1138, a chapel, dedicated to St. Godehard of Hildesheim and consecrated by Würzburg Bishop Embrico, was added, at which point the hill, previously called “Frankenberg” became known as “Gotthardsberg”. After the addition of the chapel, the castle itself was enlarged. 

Gotthard's Ruin

Thirty years after the construction of the chapel, in 1168,  Emperor Barbarossa, Frederick I, ordered that the castle be destroyed due to it being a danger to the Würzburg church, possibly because of its use by robber barons. Though the castle was razed, the chapel was preserved and then given to the church. A nunnery was built, which was supported by the Benedictine monastery in Amorbach.

Inside Gotthard's Ruin (Photo by Graham Watson)

During the Peasants' War in 1525 , all of the buildings belonging to the nunnery, except the church were burned down by Götz von Berlichingen, a mercenary knight with a long and interesting history of involvement in various battles, skirmishes and feuds. The church and priory was then rebuilt in 1628 - 1631 by the Benedictine monastery, and surprisingly, due to the presence of Swiss soldiers in Amorbach, was left unscathed during the Thirty Years War only to be destroyed by lightning in the early 18th century. Restoration and preservation projects in the 19th and 20th centuries led to the addition of an observation tower in 1878 and a new roof in 1956. 

Neidhart portrayed in the
Codex Manesse, about 1300 *

After leaving the ruin the trail leads in a northeasterly direction to the charming little hamlet of Reuenthal, home to a watermill which is believed to be on the site where the famous medieval minnesinger, Neidhart von Reuental, once lived.  

Derived from the Middle High German word “Minne”, meaning “love”, Minnesang was a tradition of lyric- and song-writing in Germany that flourished in the Middle High German period, and was similar to the works of the troubadours of Provence. Minnesang began in the 12th century and continued into the 14th. People, like Neidhart, who wrote and performed Minnesang, were known as Minnesänger and a single song was called a Minnelied. Neidhart, who performed from at least 1210 to at least 1236 was one of the most famous of the Minnesänger and was probably active in the Duchy of Bavaria and is known to have been a singer at the court of Duke Frederick II of Austria in Vienna.  

From Reuenthal, the path leads through the idyllic farming community of Monbrunn. In 2007, this little village, with only about 70 inhabitants, was chosen as one of the most beautiful villages in Bavaria. 

Remains of Ring Wall

Soon after leaving Monbrunn, I reached the top of the Greinberg, home of the Ringwall Greinberg, also known as the Römerschanze. This is a prehistoric wall-ditch site built by the Celts, though there is evidence that the area was inhabited even earlier by the Urnfeld people. You can still see traces of the three-kilometer-long rampart and trench. A ringwall existed as early as the late Hallstatt or early La Tène period, and finds from the Urnfield period (1300 b.c. - 750 b.c.)  have also been unearthed. 

In addition to finds from the Bronze Age; the Urnfield, Hallstatt and La Tène period, there are also legacies of the Neolithic period and Roman Empire, including those from a temple to the god Mercury. Investigations have also revealed evidence from the Germanic Migration Period and the Franks. Many of the finds from the Greinberg are in the museum in Miltenberg. 

If you'd like to see these sites for yourself, join Stage Six of the Nibelungensteig at the bottom of Gotthardsberg. From the train station in Amorbach turn right on the footpath beside the B47, and head towards the Lidl supermarket. Make  a right on Miltenbergerstrasse and cross the bridge leading over Bill Creek. Soon, you’ll see a green “N”, telling you that you are on a feeder spur, leading towards the trail. This will quickly turn into the red “N” of the main path.  Follow the trail over the hills and down into MIltenberg, where a quick train journey will take you back to Amorbach. The trail is approximately 13 kilometers, takes about four hours and is suitable for those of a reasonable fitness level. 

*By http://digi.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/diglit/cpg848/0541, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=189976

The Ebersberg Felsenmeer - The Hinterer Odenwald's Little Sea of Stones

Ebersberg Felsenmeer

Ebersberg Felsenmeer

When most people hear the name “felsenmeer”, they automatically think of the giant boulders spilling down the side of the Felsberg in the western part of the Odenwald, not far from the Bergstrasse. If you've ever visited that felsenmeer, you know that, while it is awe-inspiring, it can be a bit crowded at times. Should you prefer somewhere more secluded, where you can spend a quite time communing with nature, you may wish to visit the Odenwald's smaller "sea of stones", known as the Ebersberg Felsenmeer, lying some 40 kilometers to the east of its larger cousin, near the town of Erbach-Bullau. 

Ebersberg Felsenmeer

Though both locations are host to a “sea” of large boulders and lie in the Odenwald, the similarities largely end at that point. Unlike the boulders at Felsberg, which are made of melaquarzdiorite, the stones at Ebersberg are made of bunter sandstone (Buntsandstein), a much softer, porous sedimentary rock. The structure of the stones allows moss and other vegetation to attach to the boulders, causing the stones to appear to be the more ancient of the two. This is, however, inaccurate. The stones at Felsberg are much older than those of Ebersberg, which were formed during the Tertiary period. 

Another difference between the two felsenmeers is that the Ebersberg stones are found in the Hinterer Odenwald (also called the Buntsandstein Odenwald), while the Felsberg lies in the Vorderer Odenwald (also called the Crystalline Odenwald).  The southeast border of these two regions is a bit hard to define but measures roughly 34 kilometers from Ober-Kinzig to Heiligkreuzsteinach. The difference in the two landscapes becomes more pronounced the further east you go, with the mixed forests of the Vorderer Odenwald giving way to largely coniferous forests of the Hinterer Odenwald. 

Ebersberg Felsenmeer

Geologic Processes in the Hinterer Odenwald

Ebersberg Felsenmeer

The Hinterer Odenwald, where the Ebersberg Felsenmeer lies, consists mainly of sand, silt and claystone, which were deposited about 250 million years ago in the Triassic period, in what was then

largely a river and lake landscape. At that time, the climate was quite dry and the large river systems which transported rock debris often fell dry due to drought. This resulted in the formation of a basin in which sand was deposited and, over the course of time, condensed and cemented into sandstone. 

In the many millions of years during and after the formation of the variegated sandstone, geological processes caused the area to rise and fall, sometimes above sea level and sometimes below. During this time, further layers of rock were added, though over time the most elevated rock layers were also increasingly eroded. In the Vorderer Odenwald all layers have disappeared down to the crystalline bedrock, the result of which are the huge boulders you see on the Felsberg. In the eastern Odenwald, at the Ebersberg Felsenmeer, the layers of the Buntsandstein have been preserved, giving the area a vastly different appearance to its easterly cousin. 

Getting there

Unlike the Felsberg Felsenmeer, there is no car park or visitors center at the Ebersberg site. It is a quite, rather secluded place which can only be accessed by hiking or biking on a nature trail. 

Ebersberg Felsenmeer

The nearest village is at Erbach-Bulau, which you can access from the B45. Once in the village, follow the sign "Felsenmeer".  This will lead you to a narrow road which you should follow until you get to the waterworks. From there, follow the nature path, B2, which will lead you directly to Felsenmeer in about 30 minutes. Alternatively, you can park at the nature car park, Gebhardshütte, and then take trail number one. The hike from there takes approximately 25 minutes. 

Sources

“Das Ebersberger Felsenmeerg.” Geocaching.com, 10 June 2015, www.geocaching.com/geocache/GC64NFP_das-ebersberger-felsenmeer?guid=d4ca2280-6a0f-4bbd-870f-74956f89a7e4.

The Mossau Valley - Where the Living is Good

Mossautal

The Mossautal (photo by Graham Watson)

The Mossau Valley, lying in the southern Odenwald district just west of the town of Erbach, epitomizes the rural idyll of green pastures, rolling farmland and wooded hills. The valley, which is recognized by the state as a resort area, has something for everyone: wellness hotels, farm holidays, hiking, historical sites, water sports, camping and fishing. The Mossautal is also known for its fresh, local produce, where guests can taste spring-brewed beer at the Schmucker brewery, visit the smallest dairy in Hessen and catch fresh fish straight from the ponds of Hüttenthal. I recently visited Mossautal while on Stage Three of the long-distance trail, the Nibelungensteig, and was struck with the beauty of the valley, both natural and man made. 

Siegfriedsbrunnen (Sigfried's Spring)

Siegfriedsbrunnen

Walking in a south-easterly direction from the town of Grasellenbach, I came upon Siegfriedsbrunnen (Siegfried's Spring). The spring, located about 1.5 km from the center of Grasellenbach, is the best known among the places claiming to have been the site of Siegfried’s murder, one of the most famous scenes in the Nibelung Saga.

The saga is an epic poem, written down in the 13th century, based on events in the Burgundian kingdom of the 5th and 6th centuries, some of which are known historical incidents. The various Nibelung-themed hotels, restaurants and cafes in Grasellenbach is evidence that the town has marketed the site extensively for tourism for a quite some time.

The water from the spring flows from a flat stone decorated with a coat of arms featuring a lily, and an inscription describes the place as Siegfriedsbrunnen. Next to the spring, a Gothic stone cross was erected, upon which is carved, in Middle High German, a portion of text from the saga. In 1951, the well dried up after the old deciduous forest in the vicinity was replaced by faster-growing softwood, which altered the flow of the groundwater. To maintain the illusion of a spring, water is piped in from the Grasellenbach municipal water supply.

Rotes Wasser Olfen (Red Water of Olfen)

The Red Water of Olfen (photo by Graham Watson)

After leaving the well, I continued up the mountain through the forest of the Spessartkopf, where I soon noticed a distinct change in the landscape. This area is a high moor known as the Red Water of Olfen, and it is one of the last real moors in the Odenwald and is a listed nature reserve. The Red Water is a bog, one that occurs when rainwater cannot seep through the ground. As a result, dead grasses, herbs, mosses and willows cannot be completely decomposed, and they gradually form layers of peat that slowly grow above the level of the groundwater. The name, "Red Water," derives from the brown alga, which binds the iron content of the water and settles as a rust-red surface

Olfenerbild (Olfen Picture)

The Olfenerbild

Monument still
containing a picture

After spending some time looking at the beauty of the moor, I returned to the trail to make my way to the village of Güttersbach. Just before reaching the K47, approximately one km north of the village of Olfen, I came upon a monument made of red sandstone called the Olfenerbild (Olfen Picture). The monument stands about three meters high and is one of the simplest and oldest of the Odenwald Bildstöcke (Picture Sticks).

Bildstöcke are stone shafts topped with a carved niche, which house (or housed) a religious picture. They were often placed on historic pilgrimage routes. In the case of the Olfenerbild it stands on the route to Schöllenbach and Walldürn, almost equidistant between the villages of Olfen and Güttersbach. The villagers of Olfen, who had no church of their own, used to stop at the Olfenerbild on the way to church services in Güttersbach. Though the Olfenerbild no longer houses a picture, other Bildstöcke further along the trail have retained theirs.

Güttersbach

After leaving the site of the Olfenerbild, it wasn't long before I arrived in the village of Güttersbach. Once you enter the town, one of the first things you will notice is the Protestant church. Archaeological evidence points to the possibility that Irish or Scottish monks could have founded the first church here, near the Kindelbrunnen Spring, which is today located in the cellar of the vicarage.

The Güttersbach Church

The Güttersbach church is the oldest church in the southern Odenwald, its tower foundation having been built in the 13th century, at the same time as a once-present moated castle. It was a stop-off for pilgrims on their way to Walldürn before the reformation in 1544. The nave of the church dates back to the early Gothic era, though it underwent changes in the late Gothic period. The rectangular choir is dated to 1480 and the pulpit to the early 18th-century. The church contains an organ from 1740 and a stained-glass window in the sacristy, which, in the 19th century, was made up of parts of much older stained-glass windows and was donated to the church by the Counts of Erbach. The vicarage was built in 1596 and is the oldest existing vicarage in the Odenwald.

The Lindenplatz next to the church was once used for judicial proceedings, the stone seat under the Linden tree being a relic from this time. The tradition of holding a judicial court under a linden tree is an ancient German tradition, and the tree under which the court is held is called a Zentlinden. The word “zent” comes from the Latin word for centre, meaning one hundred, as one hundred families were represented by the court. Meetings were normally held once a year, mostly in the autumn under the shade of the linden tree, though special sessions could be called if needed. Courts of this type dealt with issues such as theft, fraud, adultery, witchcraft, brawls and even murder.

Güttersbach itself is recognized by the state as a health and relaxation resort and has a good number of guest facilities for a village of its size. The first mention of the village was as "Gunderspach" in 1290, at which time the presence of the church was first documented, and the fact that a mill existed in the village was first mentioned in 1424. The village was owned by the counts of Erbach, before becoming Hessen in 1806. Leaving Güttersbach, I followed the trail up the hill to the south of the village, over pastureland and through the forest and towards the village of Hüttenthal. 

Across the Meadow to Güttersbach (photo by Graham Watson)

Hüttenthal

Hüttenthal, which belonged to the counts of Erbach, was first mentioned in 1366 in regards to a dowry for the wife of Konrad of Erbach. The village remained an Erbach possession until 1806 when it became part of Hessen. Before the Thirty Years War left the town devastated and abandoned, there were four iron works in Hüttenthal, the oldest having been first documented in 1366. It was from this industry that the village got the name “Hüttenthal" as Hütte, in addition to meaning "hut", also means "iron works". It was only after Swiss immigrants arrived in the valley in the late 17th century that iron smelting, using water-powered hammers and bellows was again present in Hüttenthal.

The Dairy

Today, Hüttenthal is most famous for the small, private dairy located in the village, the Molkerei Hüttenthal. The origins of the dairy lie in the cooperative efforts of local farmers in the early 1900s. Later, Wilhelm Kohlhage took over the endeavor and turned it into a family business which has been running for three generations. Today, it is the smallest dairy in southern Hessen and the only dairy left in the Odenwald to produce the geographically-protected cheese known as Odenwälder Frühstückskäse, a soft cheese produced from pasteurized cow's milk. This cheese is often used to make a regional specialty called Handkäse Mit Musik (hand cheese with music), thus named because the cheese is formed by hand.

Marbachstausee (Marbach Reservoir)

The Marbachstausee (photo by Graham Watson)

The trail lead me past the Hüttenthal dairy and then through a scenic, coniferous forest.  I soon saw the waters of the Marbachstausee (Marbach Reservoir) peeking though the trees and underbrush before coming down the hill to walk along its southern shore. The reservoir was built from 1978 - 1982 for flood protection; however, it has become a popular place of relaxation for locals and visitors alike. Activities include: swimming, boating, windsurfing, sailing, fishing and hiking. The west end of the reservoir is a nature reserve for birds, and you can often seen some interesting waterfowl here. A camp site is also located in a designated area nearby.

The Mossautal (photo by Graham Watson)

Location
Two B roads run through Mossautal, the B47 (Nibelungenstraße) in the north and the B460 (Siegfriedstraße) in the south. The valley is bordered in the north by the community of Reichelsheim, in the east by Erbach, in the south by the town of Beerfelden, and in the west by the communities of Wald-Michelbach, Grasellenbach and Fürth. Villages which lie in the Mossautal are: Güttersbach, Hiltersklingen, Hüttenthal, Ober-Mossau and Unter-Mossau.

Schlierbach - A Bit of Switzerland in the Odenwald?

Schlierbach in the Odenwald

Most people who live in the Odenwald are quite familiar with the town of Lindenfels, with its affinity for dragons, beautiful scenery and iconic castle sitting high above the surrounding countryside. Far fewer, however, have visited the little community of Schlierbach, lying in the valley just below, though it is, quite possibly, the prettiest little village in the Odenwald. Schlierbach, having less than 600 inhabitants, is not a large place, but its historic inns, restaurants, cafes and beer gardens, scattered between the half-timbered houses which line Schlier Creek, make it a charming and scenic addition to the Odenwald community.

History

Schlierbach lies in the center of the valley of the same name and is probably the place called "Richgiesbura" in 795 in the Lorsch Codex. If so, that would be the earliest known mention of the village. The castle on the hill above, at Lindenfels, was called Schlierburg and Slirburc during the 11th century, and that is probably where the town gets its name, though there isn't documented evidence of the town being called Sirbach until 1356, at which time it was already a part of the Palatinate, a situation that would remain until 1803.

Immigration After the Thirty Years War

After the end of the Thirty Years' War (1648) and the plague that followed, Schlierbach, like many towns in the Palatinate, was almost deserted. To encourage immigration to the area, the Electoral Palatinate pursued a resettlement policy based on religious tolerance; however, wars in the troubled period afterward, such as the Palatinate Succession War (1688-1697) and the War of the Spanish Succession (1701-1714), rendered many of the efforts useless as tens of thousands of Palatinate citizens emigrated to North America and Prussia.

Wars did not, however, entirely prevent immigration. and many people from Switzerland found

Schlierbach Reformed Church

their way to the Palatinate. Some of these were Reformed Calvinist Christians who accepted the invitation of the Count Palatine and settled in the Odenwald valleys. Two brothers having the last name "Bitsch" were the first to arrive in the area, where they found many fallow farms. Matthias Bitsch, who came from the area around Chur in Switzerland, settled in Breitenwiesen in 1662, and his brother, Christian, settled in Raidelbach, villages near Schlierbach. Together, the two families had more than 20 children, though a few died in early childhood. Twelve boys, however, reached marriageable age and founded their own families. You can still find families with the last name "Bitsch" in the Odenwald today.

The Schlierbach Cemetery

It is probably from Swiss immigrants such as the Bitsch brothers, that Schlierbach came to have one of its most notable landmarks, the Evangelical cemetery. The village's cemetery is unique in the Odenwald because its markers are painted wooden boards, rather than carved stone. The religious roots of these markers can be found in the strict ideas of John Calvin (1509-1564), who, like his compatriot Ulrich Zwingli (1484-1531), insisted on a radical renewal (reformation) of the church. They gave up the traditional process of the mass and celebrated their worship with prayer, Bible reading, preaching and psalm singing. Calvinists did not believe in religious decoration or the cross as a sign of faith; therefore, graves were decorated with white boards, containing only the words "Here rests in peace", the name of the deceased with his or her year of birth and death and a simple painted decoration.

Schlierbach Reformed Cemetery

Today only one person, Friedrich Hartmann, still  produces the "Schlierbacher Totenbrett". In addition  to the standard information, Mr. Hartmann also paints a flower pot containing three flowers to symbolize the trinity on each grave marker. Roots that emanate from the flowers stand for eternal life. The oldest markers in the cemetery of Schlierbach date from the 1930s, as they are made of softwood which deteriorates fairly rapidly. The cemetery has been a listed  monument since the 1950s.

Modern History

Zum Römischen Kaiser - Operated as an Inn in the
18th Century

The population in Schlierbach recovered slowly after the Thirty Years War. In 1784, 39 families with 154 people lived in the town's 20 houses. The district consisted of 251 acres of acres, 70 acres of meadows, 5 acres of gardens, 26 acres of pasture and 10 acres of forest. Furthermore, there was a military customs post in the village at that time.

The late 18th and early 19th centuries brought far-reaching changes to the Palatinate. As a result of the Napoleonic wars, the section of the Rhine Palatinate lying on the left bank of the Rhine was annexed by France, and the Electoral Palatinate itself was dissolved. Hessen-Darmstadt also lost land on the left bank of the river.  As compensation for its losses, Hessen-Darmstadt received Lindenfels and the surrounding territory, thus making Schlierbach "Hessen".

In 1842, it was reported that Schlierbach had 34 houses with 252 inhabitant, all of whom belonged to the reformed church except 13 Lutherens and one Catholic. Among the citizens, were seven farmers, 23 tradesmen and 5 day laborers. There was one church and one grinding mill. 

The Mill in Schlierbach

Schlierbach, like the rest of Germany was affected by both world wars, having lost citizens in the fighting. Just in front of the town cemetery, a memorial has been erected to the fallen. Additionally, population figures for the town show that after World War II, refugees from the former German areas in the east settled in the village. 

Schlierbach Today

Today, Schlierbach remains a fairly relaxed little village, its old town having been supplemented with newer development in the surrounding areas, especially in the direction of Lindenfels. In 1981, Schlierbach won a competition as the most beautiful village. In 2008, the newly-developed Nibelungensteig trail helped increase tourism, as did a nearby holiday, caravan park. In 2009, the village's playground; with its water features and dragon's head tunnel, won a competition hosted by the "Bergsträsser Anzeiger" as best Bergstrasse playground. 

If you visit Schlierbach, you'll find the following facilities:

• Zur Krone (Restaurant and Beer Garden)
• Landhaus Tannenhof (Inn)
• Zum Römischen Kaiser (Inn and Restaurant)
• Hofkaffee Meister (Restaurant and Cafe)
• Terassencamping Schlierbach (Camp Ground)
• The award-winning community playground 

Sources

“Calvinistic Character of the Early German Reformed Church.” RCUS, www.rcus.org/calvinistic-character/.

“Schlierbach Im Odenwald - Home.” Schlierbach Im Odenwald - Home, www.schlierbach-odw.de/.

“Schlierbach (Lindenfels).” Wikipedia, Wikimedia Foundation, 14 May 2018, de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schlierbach_(Lindenfels).

Zwingenberg - Oldest Town on the Hessen Bergstrasse

Zwingenberg

If you've ever spent time at a festival in Zwingenberg, visited its scenic city center or just driven through the town, it will probably come as no surprise to you that this little village on the Bergstrasse has a history that dates back many years. In fact, it is considered the oldest community on the "Mountain Road", having been granted town rights in 1274.

Like other villages lining the Bergstrasse, Zwingenberg lies between the flat plains of the Hessian Ried to the west and the mid-range mountains of the Vorderer Odenwald to the east. The town's position, sandwiched between the tallest elevation on the Bergstrasse, the Melibokus range, and the swampy marshes and lowland forests of the Ried, gave it its name, Zwingenberg. The infinitive zwingen means "to force", denoting the fact that travelers were forced to pass through the town in order to avoid the mountains to the east and the lowlands to the west.

History of Zwingenberg

The first documentary mention of the town was in 1015 when the Holy Roman Emperor, Heinrich II, donated his hunting rights there to Lorsch Abbey, in which the area was referred to as locum getwinc. After this, no mention can be found of Zwingenberg until 1135 when the marriage of Hildegard von Hennenberg brought the town, along with other territory along the Bergstrasse, into the possession of Count Heinrich II von Katzenelnbogen. 

The Katzenelnbogens were a noble family whose origins were in the Rhine Gorge at Rheinfels Castle at St. Goar. From there, the Katzenelnbogens enlarged their territory to include areas south of the Main River, along the Bergstrasse and in the northern Odenwald.

In order to secure the Katzenelnbogen territory along the Bergstrasse, in the 13th century, Diether IV

built Auerbach Castle in the hills above the town and a lower castle at Zwingenberg. These two castles not only provided a means of defense against invasion but also secured the family's position as toll collectors along their section of the important north-south trade route, which included the Bergstrasse.

In 1258, Diether V petitioned to have a church built in Zwingenberg to relieve the town's occupants from the need "to reach their mother church in Bensheim to hear God’s word and receive the Sacraments...".  The archbishop of Mainz approved Diether's petition, and a church was then built in Zwingenberg. Two years later, the Katzenelnbogen territory on the Bergstrasse was divided between Diether V and his brother, Eberhard I, with Diether remaining in possession of Zwingenberg. It was also under Diether that Zwingenberg was granted town and market rights in 1274.

The reign of Diether V's son, Count Wilhelm I, was not so beneficial for Zwingenberg. In 1301, he aligned himself with a faction of Rhenish electors, including the Archbishop of Mainz, who sought to overthrow King Albrecht I. This resulted in a declaration of war by the king, in which Zwingenberg and its lower castle were set on fire and destroyed. It is worth noting that nearby Auerbach did not suffer the same fate, as it belonged to the Eberhard Katzenelnbogen line, and that side of the family had remained loyal to the king.

In February of 1403, Count Johann IV pledged Zwingenberg and its castle, along with Pfungstadt, Eschollbrücken and Nieder-Ramstadt to Count Henna Weisskreis von Lindenfels as collateral against 6,000 gulden. According to the agreement between the two nobles, "burghers, citizens, tower keepers, guards and gatekeepers in Zwingenberg and the men in Eschollbrücken, Pfungstadt and Nieder-Ramstadt must pay homage to Henne and praise obedience to him as long as he holds these places." Fortunately, Count Johann was able to later redeem his property.

The Katzenelnbogen Coat of Arms

In 1479, Count Johann IV's son, Count Philipp I, died without a male heir. As a result of the marriage of Philipp's daughter, Anna, the Katzenelnbogen territories, including Zwingenberg, then passed to the Landgraviate of Hessen. The town later passed to the Landgraviate of Hessen-Darmstadt in 1567, which in 1806 was raised to the Grand Duchy of Hessen.

As with so many communities. Zwingenberg was devastated during the 30 Years War and by a plague which occurred shortly thereafter. Communities along major thoroughfares, including the Bergstrasse, were hit particularly hard by both disease and war, and it was estimated that southern Hessen lost about 80 percent of its population during this time. Zwingenberg itself was, for the most part, abandoned. To add to the town's misery, most of its houses were then burned by the French during the Nine Years War in 1693. Only 11 houses and the church withstood the fire. The town did not really begin to recover for another century. 

During the 20th century, Zwingenberg was also witness to wars and political events affecting the wider area. Just like other communities along the Bergstrasse, Zwingenberg was involved in the action taking place during World War II, and the sight of soldiers in the streets, bombers flying overhead and tanks rolling along the motorway were common occurrences. It wasn't until the Americans occupied the area in March of 1945 did war for the citizens of Zwingenberg come to an end. There were those among the population who were happy to see the last of the fighting, as evidenced by the fact that some residents of the town removed tank barriers before hoisting white flags of surrender.

The history of the Jewish community in Zwingenberg

Synagogue in Zwingenberg

The origin of the Jewish community in Zwingenberg dates at least back to the 18th century when
Jewish families were counted in the population, though there may have been Jews living in the town as far back as the 15th century. A document from 1401 states that three "Jews are named to Twinginburg". In 1647, five Jews named Gumpel, David, Joseph, Baruch and Eysig are mentioned. In 1648, Abraham Mooysen is mentioned in a document. In 1700, the city council protested against the admission of "Hertz, the Jew's son". 

In the early part of the 19th century, the Jewish population of Zwingenberg joined with those in Alsbach, Bickenbach, Hähnlein and Jugenheim to form a common community; however, by November 1858, the Jews of Zwingenberg were populous enough to form an independent community. In 1861, the town's Jewish community had built a synagogue in the old town hall square, and by 1880, there were 77 Jewish inhabitants in Zwingenberg, mostly living in modest economic conditions. The community also had a religious school and a ritual bath; however, their dead were buried in the Jewish cemetery in Alsbach. On Yom Kippur in 1902, a fire destroyed the original synagogue; therefore, a new one was built at Wiesenstraße 5, which opened in 1903. 

In 1933, 40 people still belonged to the Jewish community in Zwingenberg; however, between 1933 and 1939, they all moved away due to an increasing deprivation of rights and repressions. Some moved nearby to cities such as Darmstadt, Frankfurt and Mannheim where they felt safer from attacks by the SA and SS; however, others emigrated. Seven went to Palestine, while others moved to the United States and Mexico. Some of those who moved away were later deported and murdered. Of the Jews either born or having been long-time resident in Zwingenberg, 20 were listed as having been killed by the Nazis. 

Though the Zwingenberg Jewish community did not survive the pogroms of the Nazi era, the synagogue was not destroyed. During the November Pogrom in 1938 (previously referred to as Kristallnacht), the neighboring inhabitants feared for their own houses and urged the SA raiders not to set the building on fire. Nevertheless, the windows of the synagogue were broken, and engravings and the stars of David were all largely destroyed. It was later decided that the synagogue should be blown up, however, this was avoided when the building was sold by the last Jew remaining in Zwingenberg, Moritz Schack, for 6,000 RM. 

Things to See in Zwingenberg

Bergkirche
By Tilman2007
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0) 

The Old Town, with its charming timber-frame houses, little cafes and restaurants, makes an attractive place to spend a few hours.

The Protestant Bergkirche (Mountain Church), located on Auf dem Berg street, is one of the oldest preserved buildings in the city. It was built in 1258 as a small chapel and was expanded and altered
throughout the following centuries. In 1830 the church was completely renovated, at which time it received its current appearance.

The remains of the Wasserburg (moated castle) belong to one of the oldest buildings in the town and were once part of Zwingenberg's fortifications. The castle was located at the southwestern end of the city wall and probably had a defensive function and administrative function (toll collection) on the Bergstrasse trade route. It was also the residence of the Katzenelnbogen family. The castle was destroyed by King Albrecht's forces in his war against the Rhenish electors.

The Aul

The Aul, located on Auf dem Berg street, is the only remaining tower of the old city walls. This two-story tower lies in the northeast corner of the old town and is made of undressed quarry stones.

The old Amtsgericht (“Amt court”), at Obertor 1, was built between 1561 and 1563 and restored in 1989. It originally served the Hessian Landgraves as a hunting palace.

The Schlößchen (“Little Palace”), located at Untergasse 16, was built about 1520 and has served as the Town Hall since 1969. 

The former guesthouse, Bunten Löwen, at Löwenplatz 6, was the first building built outside the city walls, having been constructed in 1595.

Across the street from the Bunten Löwen, you will find the Scheuergasse (lane), which was formed by two rows of side-gabled barns. These were built outside the old town wall because of the danger from fire. Today they are used mainly as houses, offices and guesthouses, though you will also find the town museum here. 

The Scheuergasse

Sources
Die Synagoge in Zwingenberg (Kreis Bergstrae), www.alemannia-judaica.de/zwingenberg_hp_synagoge.htm.

Dreißigjähriger Krieg, www.darmstadt-stadtlexikon.de/d/dreissigjaehriger-krieg.html.

“Geschichtliches Über Zwingenberg.” Zwingenberg - Modernes Leben in Historischen Mauern: Stadtgeschichte, www.zwingenberg.de/de/kultur-tourismus/stadtgeschichte.php

“Graf Johann v. Katzenelnbogen Verkauft an Henne Weißkreis Von Lindenfels Burg Und Stadt Zwingenberg Mit Den Dörfern Eschollbrücken, Das Gräflichen... - Deutsche Digitale Bibliothek.” Hessisches Staatsarchiv Darmstadt, www.deutsche-digitale-bibliothek.de/item/RHUMTIOCV4V55M4VIQRIM5XSXKEBEKFO.

Rheinland-Pfalz, Landesarchivverwaltung. “13.08.1301.” Landesarchivverwaltung, www.landeshauptarchiv.de/service/landesgeschichte-im-archiv/blick-in-die-geschichte/archiv-nach-jahrgang/13081301/.

“Zwingenberg, Hesse.” Wikipedia, Wikimedia Foundation, 9 May 2018, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zwingenberg,_Hesse